When was the last time you went out for a Mexican breakfast? Pre-pandemic, perhaps? Likely in Mexico, actually, since you won't find much of it in Sydney.

For chef Juan Carlos Negrete, the lack of a daytime Mexican offering in the local food scene is something that's been quietly irking him. 

"Breakfast is a big part of Mexican culture. But everyone in Sydney is focused on doing tacos and margaritas, and there's actually no daytime food apart from burritos at [fast food outlets]," says Negrete. 

Early this year, the former Three Blue Ducks chef decided to do something about it. Having grown up in Mexico, and completed a culinary arts degree in the city of Puebla, Negrete is keen to stretch people's understanding of what Mexican food is.

Enter Maiz Mexican Street Food: no tacos, no breakfast burritos. Instead, you'll find a colourful line-up that's split into a handful of categories: sopes (thick corn tortilla), tlacoyos (beans-filled corn flatbread), quesadillas (hand pressed tortillas), chilaquiles (corn chips with topping) and tortas (AKA sandwiches).

Oh, and don't worry if quesadilla is the only dish you're familiar with, the friendly waitstaff won't judge you on your TikTok "tortilla hack" habits. 

As the restaurant name suggests, corn is the hero. Negrete and his team hand-press all of their own white and blue corn tortilla. Depending on the week, you might even get a marbled creation that's made of both kinds of cornmeal. 

First up, the sopes. In Mexico, these thick, crumpet-height discs are technically more of a roadside snack than a breakfast dish. But at Maiz, you can get them with brunch-friendly toppings such as fried or scrambled eggs with braised cabbage and a tasty salsa roja – a smoky red sauce made with a blend of pasilla and guajillo chillies served in a shot glass.

We go for a more savoury option and try the "mole con hongos" (mushroom mole). Negrete makes his mole from scratch – a spicy, cacao-based sauce that's from a traditional recipe from Puebla. He adds macadamia for a touch of sweetness.

The dark, velvety concoction makes us fight over the last bit of the sopes. Each serving comes with two of these bad boys – upgrade to a trio to avoid tension in your brunch partnership. 

In the eggs territory, try the divorciados (divorce eggs). The name may be on the grim side, but the dish couldn't be more uplifting. The "split" refers to the two different salsas that are served with the sunny-side-ups. The green of the tomatillo and the ruby pasilla sauces make a pretty picture alongside each other. Plus, the spiciness of each salsa pair well with nuggets of queso salado (salted curds).

These eggs are served on tlacoyos – a substantial, beans-filled flatbread that will hint at your upcoming brunch coma. 

To keep your energy level high, a hot cup of cacao might be a good idea. Negrete serves a high quality, organic brew by Frido. You can choose your own intensity level: from a 35 per cent house blend to a 100 per cent version (the less intense, the sweeter). A 50 per cent cup makes a happy medium for us. 

Push on with a plate of chilaquiles for the full, traditional Mexican (hungover) breakfast experience. Corn chips with melted cheese has been known to cure all ills – better still, if you get it with a helping of fried nopales (cactus), which taste like "meaty pickled cucumber", according to Negrete.

Or add an inner-city spin with a topping of Vannella burrata. Either way, you will leave Maiz a little less hungry for a proper street food experience – at least until the world re-opens. 

The low-down

Maiz Mexican Street Food

Main attraction: Mexican street food style brunch, with hand-pressed corn tortilla, tasty mole and salsa. No breakfast burritos here. 

Must-try dish: Sopes (thick corn tortilla) with "mole con hongos" (mushroom mole). Negrete makes his mole from scratch – a spicy, cacao-based sauce that's based on a traditional recipe from Puebla.

Insta-worthy dish: The divorciados (divorce eggs) with tlacoyos, or beans-filled flatbread. The red and green salsa over sunny-side-ups make a pretty picture.