Owner-chef Jason Martin has flair to spare and a talent far more impressive than his restaurant's unprepossessing exterior and shopping strip location would suggest. Inside, the cosy red-and-orange-hued dining room is reminiscent of an art gallery, but here the artistry is all on the plate. Textures of beetroot is a beguiling composition of shape and shade - tiny beetroots, squares of ruby jelly and dots of beetroot puree interspersed with broken walnut pieces and quenelles of creme fraiche, with white balsamic lending a nice, sharp note. Discs of rich, savoury confit duck and fig terrine come with fat batons of brioche and a wellmatched fig and Earl Grey puree. Beef is pinkly cooked and rested, underscored by a garlic and red wine sauce and complemented by smooth spinach puree. A rich, moist chocolate brownie finds fine partners in peanut ice-cream and toffeed banana slices a classic combination presented with well, flair.