You'll jostle for elbow space with the next table, have dishes stacked on top of one another and drink from a plastic cup, but no one cares when the food's this good and cheap. The plastic grapevines and Persian rug decor on the ceiling may be slightly tacky but the northern Chinese flavours really shine. Pan-fried dumplings are legendary and steamed pork buns just as satisfying. Noodles are handmade in front of you and flash fried, Xinjiang style, with pork, celery and tomato. Heavy hitters such as braised eggplant, sticky pork ribs and spicy tofu make perfect dinnertime fare. The flavours are all there, the portions generous and the service fast and furious.