There's something inexplicably lovable about a decor comprising plastic grapevines and Persian rugs, but the real appeal here is the view into the kitchen, where the cooks are whipping up wheat noodles from scratch. Most diners can't go past these shiny, seriously slurpable hand-pulled noodles, but soups and dumplings (steamed, pan-fried or boiled) are also popular. The steaming hot pork and chive dumplings have fleshy pastry and juicy fillings and the spring pancake, while a trifle tricky to navigate, is a riot of beansprouts, tender beef and piquant spices. Add eager floor staff to the mix and it's little wonder this quirky place is something of a Sydney institution.