It may be the younger sibling to Potts Point’s expansive Fratelli Paradiso, but this more slender individual stands in nobody’s shadow. Crammed with tables, bar spots and more seats upstairs, it’s a place to drink great wine – of the natural and orange persuasion – paired with modern Italian plates. Although it’s almost always full, staff are on hand to squeeze you in (if they can) and recommend intriguing pours from the by-the-glass blackboard. A Tuscan trebbiano to match whitebait fritti with sparky espelette pepper, perhaps, and Languedoc carignan with a chunky tartare, crisps and wisps of cheese. Meanwhile, fat cappelletti pasta is a delight in its coconutty bisque-ish sauce, and crisp-skin ocean trout is teamed with creamy fennel and tiny smoky turnips. And to pair with caramelised apple terrine and calvados ice-cream? Might be aged amaro time.