In a wing of a gracious wayside inn (established 1847) and graced by pressed metal ceilings, an antique dresser and flickering candles at night, the Stag has become one of the most adventurous and rewarding places at which to eat in Port Fairy. Owner-chef Matthew Murphy pumped out quiches and eggs benedict at one of the town's most popular cafes before spreading his wings at the Stag. Here he's crafting menus of style, finesse and impressive technique. Local produce shines, perhaps in a starter of Otway pork belly with grilled figs and an ethereal gorgonzola foam, or grilled Portland squid with cauliflower florets and peppery oil made with wild rocket, rampant throughout the town. Fish hauled in by the Port Fairy fleet usually stars on the mains list, perhaps simply grilled with asparagus, nuggets of chorizo and heirloom tomatoes. Excellent floor staff may persuade you to try dessert. something like Shaw River yoghurt ice-cream, its slight tartness offset by sweet-poached pears.