Chef Joe Lam is dwarfed by towering bamboo steamers in his tiny kitchen. With lacquer-red walls, hanging lanterns and soy and chilli pots on each table, the scene might be familiar but Lam’s dumplings, hand-made using only free-range and organic ingredients, are works of art. Translucent steamed rice-flour rolls encase tiger prawns, topped with a tumble of spring onion greens and fried shallots. Free-range chicken, mushroom and ginger siu mai are highly addictive, while barbecue pork steamed buns are light, fluffy and succulent. At night they do stir-fries, including crowd-pleasing sweet and sour free-range pork.