Pubs with heart and soul are showing no sign of dying out soon in Victoria, with a new crop of publicans reviving old watering holes in ways that manage to attract younger customers.

“There’s not just the stock standard pub experience now,” says Pete Walsh, one of the new owners of The Albion Hotel, built in Collingwood in 1874.

“There’s quite a varied range of pubs that give you everything from the straight-up parma and Carlton Draught vibe to some quite high-end pub experiences.”

At least four old pubs have been reinvigorated in the past two months in Victoria, continuing a trend that started in 2020 of hotels being sold or passed down to younger owners eager to introduce new ideas, such as quality cocktails or gluten-free meals, without erasing the pub’s charms.

The Albion Hotel reopened in December under its original name after many years as the Punters Palace. The pokies are gone and it’s been given a ’70s-inspired lick of paint and fit-out.

The St Andrews Hotel in Fitzroy also changed its name (from the Pumphouse Hotel) and is now in the hands of Jasmin Vujic, 27, who took over from her father as publican.

Aside from names and looks, everything else about these two pubs is contemporary.

At The Albion, you can get a margarita, a wine list offering more than just “house white” and “house red”, and lighter meals with more vegetables.

Vujic is focused on getting younger drinkers through the door at St Andrews with spritz specials on weekends and a new chef. But it’s a balancing act, she says.

“[It’s about being] relevant and modern, and respecting your regulars that have been coming for 30-plus years. We still have to be able to offer them a pot of [Carlton] Draught and a bowl of chips,” says Vujic.

For Alexander Gorman, a good pub can be the glue of a community, a lesson he learnt in December from opening what is currently the only pub in Romsey, in the Macedon Ranges. The 1860 Romsey served 770 meals in its first 24 hours.

The town had been without a pub for seven years after its only other pub, the Romsey Hotel, had its application to install slot machines rejected and closed its doors. It has since lodged another application.

“It’s divided the town,” says Gorman.

“We want to show that we can run a hotel successfully without the need for pokie machines, based on really good food and good drinks.”

In Footscray, restaurateur Denis Lucey has just made the leap into pubs, purchasing The Vic Hotel late last year. He thinks the gap between restaurants and pubs is not as big as it once was.

“The new-age hotel is taking over from restaurants in some ways, particularly in some communities in the west,” Lucey says.

People have continued visiting the pub, even as they’ve cut back spending on other social activities, including restaurants, according to data from Illion. In November, Australians’ spending in pubs outstripped cafes, restaurants and fast food, and was higher than 2021 levels.

Local craft brewer Bodriggy Brewing (which now runs The Albion Hotel) says wholesale orders from pubs have surged in recent years, another sign of their popularity.

A lack of pretentiousness, affordability compared to other dining options, familiarity, and a relaxed atmosphere that suits families are some of the reasons Lucey thinks pubs are thriving.

“People treat this as their living room,” Lucey says.

Stitching together the new and the old, he’s expanded The Vic Hotel’s wine list but kept a Sunday roast and Monday steak night. The Albion runs a meat raffle every Tuesday to raise money for a housing charity while The 1860 Romsey does a weekly burger special.

“People want to have a bit of a knockabout place, they want to meet their friends again, and they want to be at the pub,” says Walsh.

Five old but new pubs offering the best of both worlds

The Albion Hotel, Collingwood

Beyond a cheery mustard-coloured facade, find an equally retro fit-out where stained glass, a tiled central bar and dark timbers set the mood. The menu is anything but predictable, thanks to Mexican-born chef Johny Dominguez, who’s serving cheese-stuffed jalapeno tacos, steak with chimichurri and kingfish dressed in a vibrant Peruvian chilli sauce.

314 Smith Street, Collingwood, 03 9965 0996, albionhotel.pub

The Vic Hotel, Footscray

Restaurateur Denis Lucey (Luxsmith, Bottega, Yardbird) recently took over this pub, which had its most significant facelift several years ago. Not much is changing inside, but you’ll notice a little more polish in the service and atmosphere. The entirely gluten-free menu is gone but gluten-free options remain, such as pan-fried gnocchi, alongside a raft of other dishes such as chicken schnitzel, Cape Grim steak and spiced prawn cocktail.

43 Victoria Street, Footscray, 03 9224 6168, vichotelfootscray.com.au

The 1860 Romsey

Locals are overjoyed to have their pub back. It helps that schooners are $8, there’s a pool room in the 164-year-old building, and the shady beer garden has its own bar. Weekly $18 burger specials, a menu melding the classic (fish and chips) and the contemporary (grilled halloumi salad), and a local-leaning wine list add to the appeal.

119 Main St, Romsey, 03 4418 7601, the1860.com.au

The Gertrude Hotel, Fitzroy

The neon lightning bolt painted on the facade is gone and, without the rainbow colour scheme, the interiors are nearly unrecognisable – meet the new Gertrude Hotel. With its terrazzo floors, timber blinds and minimalist bar stools, this 1854 hotel is now more like an Italian clubhouse, although vintage photographs and bric-a-brac add a nostalgic touch. You’ll be eating pasta (there are three kinds), pizza or veal schnitzel, another nod to Italy.

148 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, thegertrude.com.au

St Andrews Hotel, Fitzroy

A new generation is running the show at this stately pub (formerly The Pumphouse) opposite the picturesque Carlton Gardens. Next month, talented new chef Daniel Southern (ex-Smith Street Bistrot) will introduce a menu of French bistro classics to complement pub comfort fare. New publican Jasmin Vujic still lives above the pub where she grew up and learnt the ropes from her parents.

124 Nicholson Street, Fitzroy, standrewshotel.com.au