On behalf of The Age Good Food Guide, may I present this year’s finalists in the Smeg Young Chef of the Year award. Chosen by a panel of judges as well as food writers, it’s an award that has been handed out to a rising star on the Victorian restaurant scene every year since the Good Food Guide’s 2002 edition.

A little-known chef named Andrew McConnell was the award’s inaugural winner, sharing the title with his brother Matt. Other winners include George Calombaris (2004), then heading up Melbourne restaurant Reserve, an earlier adopter of molecular gastronomy, and Kylie Millar (2018), then at Attica.

This year’s super-talented bunch, all aged under 30, was drawn from our largest-ever field of entrants and boy are they passionate, skilled and dedicated. They also know more about eating out in this city than almost anyone. So, as we congratulated them on the honour of reaching finalist status, we asked them to spill their secrets about the Melbourne scene they know, love and are integrally involved in.

Ardyn Bernoth, Good Food Editor

Stuart Teh, Manzé, 27

Where do you go for late-night eats after work?

Nothing beats late-night Chinese with a cold beer after a service. My go-to places are Seafood Street or Ling Nan. Of course, everyone’s favourite dish is XO pipis with Chinese doughnuts. I also like to add fried vermicelli noodles and deep-fried quail.

What’s your number-one hidden gem in Melbourne that you don’t want anyone to know about?

Old Street Hunan in Box Hill – you’ve got to try the smoked pork jowl with smoked bamboo shoots and the stir-fried pork intestines. Most dishes there come with a fistful of fresh chilli; they aren’t that spicy but can seem very intimidating.

What’s the best dish you’ve eaten this year?

It was a chicken curry pie. Simple, yes, but hear me out – it was a collaboration with Manzé and Bread Club. The flakiest dough but still with a chew thanks to Bread Club, and the filing was a very citrusy curry chicken with a strong aroma of spices. A perfect balance that restored my faith in pies.

What’s Melbourne’s most killer sandwich?

Nico’s Sandwich Deli – their Cubano is to die for. Nothing else needs to be said.

Who makes your favourite bowl of noodles?

The chilli pan mee at Jojo Little Kitchen (Fulton Lane, and QV Food Court, CBD) is a perfect bowl of noodles for any chilli fanatic out there. You get chilli mix, lard, poached egg, and some minced meat.

What’s the most uncheffy thing that you eat out, regularly?

Pork feet from Dosirock, Melbourne CBD. It’s a Korean restaurant that serves them deep-fried, braised and stir-fried. My favourite is the stir-fried and can be quite spicy so beware. There is also a special for $10 to add in soba noodles I always get it together, it’s really good.

Who has Melbourne’s best croissant, and why?

Drom Bakery – it’s a bit out of the city in Bayswater. They make circular croissants filled with various fillings. They also make a decent croissant, buttery and flakey.

What forthcoming restaurant are you excited to check out when it opens?

Saadi – a husband and wife team cooking modern Australian food drawing inspiration from their Indian heritage. Currently, they only do pop-ups, but I can’t wait for them to have a permanent spot.

Claire Feij, Vue de Monde, 29

Which bar is your go-to for a martini?

I love Di Stasio Citta’s martinis. Drinking one there instantly makes you feel like you’re in a James Bond movie. The art projection playing on the wall, the waiters in their white jackets, and the perfect martinis create a fantastic atmosphere.”

Who makes Melbourne’s most killer sandwich?
I’m not the biggest sandwich person, but when I do crave one, I will be going straight to Miznon. Nine out of 10 times, I’ll get the Cheakypita (falafels) or the Golden Fish and a bag of the green beans. It’s to die for.

Is there anywhere that you order off-menu – and what do you ask for?

A few of my closest friends work at Yugen and when I’m there, I almost feel like I’m at their house, and I’ll get a bit cheeky. A few pieces from the omakase menu upstairs get added to my dinner, and a tester of one of the new tarts or desserts always ends up on the table or in a bag to take home.

Who does your favourite bowl of noodles?

Kenangan in Elizabeth Street, Melbourne. I come here for the soto ayam, an Indonesian chicken noodle soup with turmeric and ginger that reminds me a lot of home. We have a lot of Indonesian food in Amsterdam and eating here always gives me the feeling of being home for a moment. It’s the most nourishing bowl of noodles out there.

What’s the most uncheffy thing that you eat out, regularly?

I could live off just eating ice-cream. Even when it’s freezing cold, I probably still pop in to try out one of the new special flavours. I can’t stop going to Kariton (Footscray and Russell Street, Melbourne), and I recently discovered Fluffy Torpedo on Smith Street too. They have some funky flavours. Piccolina and Gelato Messina also get regular visits from me.

Who has Melbourne’s best croissant and why?

Small Batch Roasting Co. in North Melbourne. They do their croissants with a twist to them. It’s nothing crazily funky, but just that little difference I like. Their chilli cheese twist is my favourite. I make up a reason to detour for it.

What forthcoming restaurant are you excited to check out when it opens?

Well, of course, Vue de Monde! We’ve been planning and talking about this renovation for five years. Nothing like a makeover. And I am super keen to try out Reine & La Rue; they are basically our neighbours now. Everything I have seen passing by looks incredible, and the location is already such an iconic spot in Melbourne.

Viveik Vinoharan, Lilac Wine, 27

Where do you go for late-night eats after work?

Close to work would be a cheeky lamb souvlaki from Lambs on Richmond. Otherwise, I’d go Seafood Street and grab some XO pipis and a few dozen serves of mantou.

What’s your number-one hidden gem in Melbourne that you don’t want anyone to know about?

I absolutely love everything going on at Gaea. There are monthly changing menus with fascinating pairing programs. Last month they even did a sake pairing and their non-alco pairing is so unique. If too many people find out I won’t be able to go back as much.

Which bar is your go-to for a great martini?

Black Pearl. Found myself there after/during shenanigans far too many times. Also, Gibsons are 100 per cent better than martinis.

What’s the best dish you’ve eaten this year in Melbourne or Victoria?

A few moons ago I went to Amaru and had this sea lettuce, eel, and quandong number that blew me away. This small tart with such punchy flavours left a great memory from an already fantastic experience.

What’s the most uncheffy thing that you eat out, regularly?

I’m a sucker for “uncheffy” food, the biggest culprit would easily be a double quarter pounder with two extra patties and extra cheese absolutely drenched with Tabasco sauce. It’s heresy and sounds like a bad time and I can guarantee you it is.

Who has Melbourne’s best croissant and why?

I’d have to go to Monforte Viennoiserie in Carlton. The croissants were great but the kouign-amann was so dark, caramelised, and flaky it was a party in my mouth. Definitely recommend getting there nice and early.

Cameron Tay-Yap, Amaru, 26

Who makes Melbourne’s most killer sandwich?

For me, nothing beats Hector’s Deli. Especially after an early morning dive or forage, I love to start with their bacon, egg, and sausage breakfast sandwich.

What forthcoming restaurant are you excited to check out when it opens?

I am most looking forward to seeing what Mika Chae does at his upcoming restaurant Doju late this year. After briefly working with him at Attica during lockdown, paired with his time at Grain of the Silos in Tasmania, it’s built my anticipation for quite some time. He is very talented and creative, and I can’t wait to see what he has in store for everyone.

What’s the best dish you’ve eaten this year in Melbourne or Victoria?

Rosheen Kaul does a fantastic abalone and lardo skewer at Etta. I had a fantastic meal there earlier this year, but this dish was a stand-out: all sweet and umami-driven flavours with the smoky kiss of fire. A real knock-out dish.

What’s your number-one hidden gem in Melbourne that you don’t want anyone to know about?

My number one hidden gem is barely about food and hospitality but rather great vibes. It is La Roca Boulders rockclimbing gym in Oakleigh, and while they do a mean coffee and we do have the occasional barbecue on a sunny day there, it has been a haven to stay active and fit with great company and friendly faces all these years.

Where do you go for late-night eats after work? What are your picks of the menu?

Nothing beats Seafood Street after a good late service. We always go for their XO pipis with Chinese doughnuts and water spinach. Their unagi fried rice always hits the spot too. Accompanied with ice-cold herbal tea, it’s the perfect cool-down meal after work.

Who does your favourite bowl of noodles?

My favourite bowl of noodles is Penang-style Hokkien prawn mee. It is a chicken and prawn-based broth with both vermicelli and egg noodles. I recently had it back in Penang and it was unreal. Strong, bold, punchy flavours with light spice. Now in Melbourne, the best rendition of it - aside from my mum’s of course - I think is from Jade Kingdom in Heidelberg Heights. Growing up in that part of town, it was our go-to and was always busy. That dish was always both my and my mum’s favourite.

What’s the most uncheffy thing that you eat out, regularly?

A huge guilty pleasure is KFC’s wicked wings. I often find myself craving the lightly spiced super crunchy wings. Even though it’s definitely not healthy or very “cheffy” it’s like an itch that just needs to be scratched sometimes.

Lily McGrath, MoVida, 26

Where do you go for late-night eats after work?

Supper Inn will always be my go-to. I used to go every Sunday with an old co-worker, we always got Chinese broccoli with garlic, beef in black bean sauce, steamed rice, green tea, and one other dish we’d rotate out each week: fried bean curd, mapo tofu, or sweet and sour pork ribs.

Who does your favourite bowl of noodles?

My favourite bowl of noodles is from Parco Ramen Yatai on Elizabeth Street, my partner and I go every Thursday, it’s a tradition that I absolutely love. They make great chicken ramen. Sinking a hot bowl of noodles and a beer while talking to my wife about our day is unbeatable.

What’s the most uncheffy thing that you eat out, regularly?

Probably the most uncheffy thing I eat regularly is brunch. I’m an absolute fiend for brunch. I’m a very early riser. I’ve caught a fair bit of flack over the years from my co-workers because it’s the easiest meal to make at home yourself, but I simply don’t feel like doing that. I usually go to Hot Poppy Cafe in North Melbourne, or Affinity on Errol. I always get a big breakfast or a Japanese set lunch respectively.

What’s your number-one hidden gem in Melbourne that you don’t want anyone to know about?

Osaka Bench on Flinders Lane is a great tiny little Japanese restaurant. It seats probably 15 people or so, It’s usually 80% full, but there’s always a space because the service is superfast and they turn tables quickly. It’s so cheap and it’s so tasty. I always order the katsu curry.

What’s Melbourne’s most killer sandwich?

I don’t know if you’d quite call it a sandwich, but [I rate] the Breakfast (sausage, egg, and cheese) from Hector’s Deli. I also buy a hash brown and stick it in there, too. Breakfast sandwiches are the GOAT and I’ll die on that hill.

What’s the best dish you’ve eaten this year in Melbourne or Victoria?

The best dish I’ve eaten this year was the bread and preserves at Gray and Gray in Northcote. It was super simple, but all the bits and bobs were all so tasty and it opened up the best meal I’ve had this year too. The whipped sunflower seed butter, pickled white beets, and the green beans in broad bean miso were especially good.

Which bar is your go-to for a great martini?

Bar Bellamy on Rathdowne Street makes the best martini, and just cocktails in general, that I’ve had in years. It’s a great space, the food is awesome, the staff are great, and it’s super cosy.

Cassandre Morris, Gimlet at Cavendish House, 28

What’s the best dish you’ve eaten this year in Melbourne or Victoria?

Lion’s mane mushroom schnitzel at Greasy Zoes (Hurstbridge). The whole tasting menu was delicious, creative and thoughtful, but this stuck out as very clever and tasty. Lion’s Mane mushroom has a similar texture to chicken. Eating this reminded me of a crumbed chicken schnitzel and opened my mind as to how you can approach an ingredient.

What’s Melbourne’s most killer sandwich?

Nico’s fried chicken sandwich. I had my first Nico’s recently (very late to the party) and it definitely lived up to the hype – a perfect ratio of bread, fried chicken, lettuce and mayo. The pickles make it the best sandwich in Melbourne for me.

Who does your favourite bowl of noodles?

Shujinko Flinders opposite Flinders Street Station makes my favourite ramen. It’s hard to pass up when there’s a long wait for your train after a really busy day. Always ask for an extra egg.

What’s the most uncheffy thing that you eat out, regularly?

I’m not ashamed to admit that my partner and I will get a bratwurst every week from Mr. Bratwurst in Prahran Market. It was our lockdown treat and remains to be our guilty pleasure. I order the bratwurst with onion and load it with mustard - honestly, it’s so good!

Who has Melbourne’s best croissant and why?

Monforte Viennoiserie – the honey and sea salt with the croissant elevates it to something really special. The whole space is very impressive and inspiring.

What forthcoming restaurant are you excited to check out when it opens?

Messmates in Warragul. Jodie Odrowaz and Michael Clarke are a brilliant team who are opening up their first restaurant – I can’t wait to go out there and support them and, of course, eat all their snacks.

The Smeg Young Chef of the Year winner will be announced on October 30 at The Age Good Food Guide 2024 Awards presented by Vittoria Coffee and Oceania Cruises. The Age Good Food Guide 2024 will be on sale from October 31.