JollyGood, one of the many sandwich pivots by a fine-dining chef in 2020 that set off our sandwich mania, is now raising the bar for diner food in Melbourne, serving restaurant-quality breakfast sandwiches, burgers and bloody Marys in a timber-heavy space in Collingwood.

Located just a few doors away from Terror Twilight, Stefanino Panino and Hope Street Radio, JollyGood Diner brings an all-day, wallet-friendly option to the thriving pocket.

“The end goal for me was always a bar,” says owner Raphael Exton Pery. “Initially, I thought it would be a wine bar, but now I’ve found my niche.”

American diners appeal to him because of their democracy, built for everyone from solo diners to people after a speedy, low-budget meal to groups who want to turn dinner into a night of cocktails and champagne.

JollyGood’s other shop in Fitzroy remains open and will concentrate on the signature sandwiches that earned it many fans, such as the French dip with roast beef.

What’s the vibe?

Americana lite. Taking his favourite aspects of diners, like the warmth, booth seats and a long bar, Exton Pery has added some more contemporary touches like polished concrete floors and bentwood chairs. Then there’s the attention to service and the execution of the dishes. The chef has worked at Gimlet, Gingerboy, Rockpool, Lagotto and other top spots around town, which brings an undeniable level of polish. But there are no bookings, a communal table at bar height, a late licence (soon to kick in) and a better-than-expected drinks list that keep the good times rolling.

Isn’t there already a JollyGood?

Ten points to you. Yes, JollyGood, the sandwich spot attached to Fitzroy beer bar Near and Far, has been up and running for more than two years. Now called JollyGood Junior, it will still be your go-to if it’s just a sandwich you’re after.

When should I visit?

On mornings when you’re a little under the weather and only an oozy cheese, egg and hash brown sandwich will fix you.

Late at night with mates, when it’s time for a nightcap and squishy burgers, or a slice of sweet pie ($13) from the dish that sits on the bar. Key lime is always on; the hot pie filling might be cherry, apple or something else.

When your sandwich cravings strike at 3pm, you can sink into a leather booth and add a tap beer or glass of wine. This really is an all-day venue.

What should I order?

If you already know the roster of JG sandwiches, branch out to one of the new menu items: a club sandwich starring house-made maple bacon ($16) or a burger, either classic ($18) or with a smash patty ($16). To complete your diner immersion therapy, add a dill and chive-flecked wedge salad ($12), a piece of pie and a filter coffee by Supreme that would make Agent Dale Cooper gush.

What’s there to drink?

The boozy Arnold Palmer ($18). It’s a refreshing mix of lemonade and peach iced tea, named after the American golfer who used to order it at the clubhouse. Except at Jolly Good, it’s tricked up with Wild Turkey bourbon. Bloody Marys are a fab idea in the morning. Later, take Exton Pery’s recommendation and pair your burger with a juicy beaujolais.

What’s the best seat?

The seats that feel the most like eating at a diner are the stools at the timber bar facing the kitchen, and the booths with olive-green leather seats.

Who should I go with?

No one, if you don’t want to. This is the perfect spot for solo dining, with loads of bar seating and a communal table. But if you’re with a crew, the dial is turned to fun, especially in the evenings.

Open Tue-Thu 8am-5pm, Fri 8am-11pm, Sat 9am-11pm, Sun 9am-5pm.

27 Johnston Street, Collingwood, jollygoodmelbourne.com