You may have joined the line for a baguette from pandemic pop-up Jolly Good Sandwiches. Now chef Raphael Exton Pery has found a permanent home for his passion project, turning the side-hustle into a full-time gig.

The former Gimlet junior sous chef was riding his bike to a shift at Andrew McConnell's society hangout when he was hit by a car, spending six weeks in recovery. "It gave me time, like COVID did, to think about what I want to do long-term," he says.

Exton Pery has since teamed up with Fitzroy craft beer bar Near and Far, which is expanding into the site next door with a new bottle shop and kitchen – think Thornbury's low-fi Carwyn Cellars meets 1950s diner, with sandwiches. "This end of Brunswick Street [north of Johnston Street] is having a rebirth, so it's a perfect fit," says Exton Pery.

Expect a more sophisticated affair than your usual lunchtime ham 'n' cheese – these creations are designed to match beer and wine options.

The bread is from Cobb Lane, and the four filling combinations are simple but premium: poached chook with butter lettuce, herbs and citrus mayo; rare roast beef with Swiss cheese and balsamic leaves; a deluxe salad roll with farmhouse cheddar (all $16) and a two-cheese toastie with mustard and pickles ($13).

Extras include giant pretzels, corn chips and pickles, and doughnuts, with new combinations and "special guest sandwiches" on the slate for the future.

Opening on June 5, then from Wed-Sat, 11am-4pm, Sun 11am-3pm at Near and Far, 373 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy. instagram.com/jollygood_sandwiches