A cult Japanese noodle shop arrives in Melbourne with summer-ready bowls
Everything you need to know about aburasoba, the “dry ramen” that ditches the soup but still packs plenty of flavour into every squiggly bite of noodles.
A Japanese noodle chain with more than 100 locations worldwide has finally touched down in Melbourne with a style of ramen rarely seen here – and it just happens to be perfect for a sweltering summer.
Kajiken, a noodle chain that began south of Tokyo in Nagoya, makes aburasoba, which translates to “oil noodles” but is often referred to as soupless ramen.
You might think soupless ramen sounds like a scam. Isn’t the broth half the point? But aburasoba is no gimmick. It’s your new best friend when you want deliciously dressed noodles that won’t weigh you down.
First things first: the dish isn’t all that oily, and it’s not made with soba, but with wavy yellow noodles similar to those in ramen. Instead of the richly flavoured broth of ramen, though, aburasoba uses a medley of oils and sauces to build flavour, complemented by toppings from chashu pork and nori to spring onion and soy-marinated egg.
At Kajiken, there are 14 toppings to add, and you can choose how you’d like the egg that comes with most bowls: onsen (or soft-poached), ajitama, or a raw yolk.
When your noodles arrive, you’re supposed to toss them immediately (as you would a salad) to make sure the sauces and toppings coat the hot noodles. Taste and then decide if you want to add any of the condiments on your table: chilli oil, rice wine vinegar, sesame seeds or crushed garlic chips.
The Southern Cross venue, which opened in mid-October, serves between 200 and 300 customers each day, and follows Kajiken’s first Australian location, which opened in Sydney last year to long queues.
“Many [Australians] were fascinated by the idea of a soupless noodle dish,” says Link Lin, marketing manager of Kajiken’s local franchise operator. “It’s been truly rewarding to see how much Australians have embraced aburasoba.”
The first Melbourne store bottles a little of Japan’s street-food culture with its location at a busy train station.
Among its 11 choices of aburasoba, there’s one topped with fried soft-shell crab, another with rare wagyu beef slices, and one with mapo tofu. The original is similar to a bowl of tonkotsu ramen: thin slices of chashu pork, bamboo shoots, nori and spring onions resting on springy noodles.
The most popular bowl in Melbourne is homura with spicy minced pork, dried fish powder and egg yolk.
“Our Japanese team spent two months in Melbourne, carefully researching local ingredients and flavors,” says Lin, adding that, worldwide, each Kajiken’s menu has a local twist.
The noodles are made daily in a prep kitchen near the Southern Cross venue.
Similar to the Japanese dish mazesoba, aburasoba is more traditional, says Kajiken, while mazesoba is associated with bolder, more experimental flavours.
“Aburasoba usually implies a lighter, oil-based sauce, focusing on subtle and balanced flavours,” says Lin.
At the Melbourne venue, 35 seats are spread across blonde wood tables and a central bar. There is plenty of light in the petite space. It’s a pop-in, pop-out place, designed for quick visits either solo or in a very small group. Takeaway is available.
Joining the noodles are snacks such as takoyaki (deep-fried octopus balls) and ebi (prawn) croquettes; donburi (rice bowls) with toppings including chicken karaage; and matcha soft-serve.
Two more Sydney venues are on the way and the company says it is gradually planning expansion into other areas of Australia.
Open daily 11.30am-9pm
Southern Cross Station, Level 1, Shop CS11, entry via Collins Street, Docklands, instagram.com/kajiken_melbourne
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