Keen for a ferociously cold martini, mezcal negroni, or a late night kicking back with live jazz? A secret margarita room with tequila-spiked cherry soda? Cabanossi, cheese and an exactingly made Sazerac? Amaro and one of the world’s best sausage rolls? Sydney’s thriving bar scene can accommodate all of this and much, much more.

The city’s bars continue to go from strength to strength, and we’re excited for upcoming openings such as The Waratah in Darlinghurst (from former Bulletin Place manager Evan Stroeve and food by Icebergs’ Alex Prichard), and plush Double Bay jazz den Bobbie’s courtesy of Neil Perry in partnership with Linden Pride, the Australian-born talent behind New York’s lauded Dante.

All signs point to Caterpillar Club from the Swillhouse team (Shady Pines, Le Foote) being a cracker when it opens for live music in Martin Place later this year, while Enmore Road’s after-dark domination is set to continue with The Trocadero Room, a tribute to the glamorous dance palace that operated on George Street between 1937 and 1971. With Pasan Wijesena (Earl’s Juke Joint) at the helm it will open in the coming weeks, hidden behind a second new venue, The Magpie, a miniature pub for watching the footy. Brilliant.

In the meantime, here are our top 20 bars for 2023 (so far). When $24 is the going rate for a cocktail, it darn well better be good and these boozers can provide.

Ante

Nowhere else in town can you tap your toes to a Japanese dub record while sipping cloudy sake with one hand and twirling forkfuls of chef Jemma Whiteman’s fermented mushroom tagliatelle with the other. That’s exactly what makes this zen-like bolthole such a winner – it’s a true original, brought to life with a clear-cut sense of purpose and eye for detail. Don’t sleep on the highballs either, which easily rank among Sydney’s finest.

146 King Street, Newtown, ante.bar

Bar Planet

Martinis (rightfully) occupy so much of the spotlight at Bar Planet that it’s easy to forget what a tightly edited, well-rounded watering hole it is. Seasonal specials such as a frothy vodka sour brightened by rhubarb and beetroot are always on song, and the ruthlessly spiced popcorn has to be the city’s best free bar snack. On the wagon? They’ll whip up something fresh and fruity for you free of charge. Classy.

16 Enmore Road, Newtown, barplanet.com.au

The Baxter Inn

Whether you’re in the zone to sample rare single malts with triple-digit price tags per pour, or just sit on a bowl of pretzels and hoppy brown ale, the white-aproned staff at Baxter knock it out of the handsome, candle-lit basement every time. The whisky list is now more than 900 bottles long, and the Manhattans are as balanced as ever.

152-156 Clarence Street, Sydney, swillhouse.com/venues/the-baxter-inn

Cantina OK!

How does such an itty-bitty watering hole manage to cram in so much character, quality and expertise? Nearly five years on, that same question still looms large with every visit to this tucked-away temple of tequila, mezcal and other wicked agave distillates with evocative nicknames like “Bath Bomb” or “Saxophone Solo”. The Margarita OK! – all shaved ice and orange oil – remains the reviver to beat, but off-piste adventures are just as rewarding.

Council Place, Sydney, okokok.com.au

Continental Deli Bar Bistro

If venue manager Michael Nicolian is behind the bar, you won’t encounter a better Ramos Gin Fizz in Sydney, the New Orleans classic standing tall and proud, with a head like souffle. Even if he’s not around, the team at this charming locals’ favourite can sort you out with a cracking cocktail or wine to accompany charcuterie and a chilled afternoon. Chef Quentin Roquigny also rocks a fine carte of European snacks and share plates.

210 Australia Street, Newtown, continentaldelicatessen.com.au

Double Deuce Lounge

After years of detailed, thorough, exhaustive research, we’re happy to release the following finding: Double Deuce’s Stinger is the ultimate nightcap. Cognac, peppermint, Fernet Branca, and mint oil, come on down. Drinker beware, though. With the basement bar’s 1970s vibes, a soul soundtrack, greased quiffs and warm service, that “one last” cocktail can go from nightcap to party-starter before you can say “more cabanossi and cheese, please”.

6 Bridge Street, Sydney, doubledeucelounge.com

Earl’s Juke Joint

Few bars make it to the 10-year mark in Sydney. And even fewer do it with as much unwavering consistency as Earl’s, which remains a spark plug in the Inner West’s now crowded cocktail scene. Indeed, this Joint has an answer to every question you throw at it, backed by skills, smarts and warm hospitality in spades. Call for the beeswaxy, cognac-rich Diabolical Biz, and toast to another decade of distinction.

407 King Street, Newtown, earlsjukejoint.com.au

El Primo Sanchez

This is not a quiet place. Enter through the old pub doors and you’re hit with an explosion of canary yellow, mustard, vivid oranges and royal blue. Lights in a recessed ceiling pulse and change colour. Staff shake excellent tequila-based cocktails, attractive people eat tacos, and agave nerds thumb the excellent mezcal list. We like it a lot. Earlier in October, El Primo opened La Prima too, a “secret” 10-seater, candlelit, Oaxacan-inspired bar semi-hidden within the venue. We’re big fans of its “Encanto” special featuring tequila, dry vermouth and cherry soda.

27-33 Oxford Street, Paddington, elprimosanchez.com

Jacksons on George

To be clear, we’re talking about two-thirds of Jacksons here. The ground floor does what it says on the box (beer and footy, largely), but under Maurice Terzini’s stewardship, the rooftop bar is set to be the place this summer, with sharp drinks, upbeat tunes and city views. Meanwhile, middle-level Bistro George offers an excellent cocktail list of revamped classics to accompany oysters, clams and salt-crusted steak.

176 George Street, Sydney, jacksonsongeorge.com.au

Jangling Jack’s

“Sometimes you wanna go where everybody knows your name, and they’re always glad you came.” This mood-lit refuge just off the Potts Point main drag may not look like the bar from Cheers, but it certainly feels like it, with a band of regulars routinely holding court around the counter, sitting on tap beers, banana daiquiris and fried chicken. Newcomers are equally welcome, especially every Thursday when there’s live blues. Jack’s also gets our vote for the best value happy hour in Sydney: $12 negronis, $10 house wines and $15 cheeseburgers from 4-6pm daily, not to mention $15 martinis all night long every Monday.

175 Victoria Street, Potts Point

Maybe Sammy

The accolades continue to roll in, and so, too, do the crowds; so much so that even early school nights at Maybe Sammy can lift off like a New Year’s Eve knees-up. And why shouldn’t they, when you’ve got a squadron of pink-jacketed pros mixing seriously high-minded drinks outfitted with “raspberry clouds” and “olive oil air”? To hit peak high-roller status, try the $150 negroni stirred with vintage spirits from the ’70s.

115 Harrington Street, The Rocks, maybesammy.com

Old Mate’s Place

There’s no better place to be on a sunny Sunday afternoon than the squeezy Old Mate’s rooftop, which has somehow retained the feel of a well-kept secret despite being anything but. For best results, begin with a VB throwdown before moving on to the inspired bracers: a coconutty riff on a Tommy’s Margarita with fermented chilli and kimchi agave, say, or a watermelon-forward number folding sake and gin together with fino sherry.

Level 4, 199 Clarence Street, Sydney, oldmates.sydney

PS40

Owner Michael Chiem’s breakfast negroni – complete with the flavours of banana bread, coffee and tonka bean – may well be Australia’s tastiest new cocktail of the past decade. The original drinks here are always a little ingenious like that, while Takeover Tuesdays provides a platform for the next generation of Sydney chefs to flex their talent across a set menu of singular small plates. A well deserved Bar of the Year winner in The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide 2024, published last week.

2/40 King Street, Sydney, ps40bar.com

Randy’s Wine

You don’t see too many natural wine bars open in Avalon, or many menus sporting “our version” of a Zinger on a house-baked milk bun for that matter. That fried chook sandwich is tailor-made for eating after a beach dip with skin-contact semillon and seaweed-salted fries. Bar Elvina is also upstairs for more Mediterranean holiday vibes, sashimi and spritzes.

50 Old Barrenjoey Road, Avalon Beach, randyswine.com.au

Re

It takes a whole lotta chutzpah to froth up a vegetal-scented spin on an Espresso Martini with surplus potatoes from Harris Farm. Or put spent rice from a Byron Bay farm to good use in a banana-fragrant spritz with tonka beans. Yet, waste warrior Matt Whiley and his crew do these things to such delicious effect that you’ll wonder why more bars don’t follow in Re’s trailblazing footsteps. A proper game-changer.

Shop 82, Locomotive Street, Eveleigh, wearere.com.au

The Rover

It’s a simple brief at this clubby, elegant hideout – great oysters, terrific drinks and a legendary lamb sausage roll. Cocktails from Alex Gondzioulis are consistently a cut-above (we’re big fans of the house Old Fashioned with amaro and salted maple), and there’s no shortage of global whisky to accompany a late-night cheddar and chutney session.

75 Campbell Street, Surry Hills, therover.com.au

Shady Pines Saloon

Shady’s still got it – and, quite frankly, this pioneering inner-city purveyor of wicked beers and brown spirits has never really lost it. Dynamite happy hour deals get the party started early, and live country crooners keep it going well into the night on Thursdays and Sundays. Yet, know that no matter when you drop by, the twinkling fairy lights, taxidermy critters and Hank Williams tunes will cast their magic spell.

Shop 4, 256 Crown Street, Darlinghurst, swillhouse.com/venues/shady-pines-saloon

Vermuteria

The Kings Cross site once home to Cafe Hernadez reopened in February as a vermouth-fuelled neighbourhood bar for tinned seafood, charcuterie and a damn refreshing sherry cobbler. The place looks like it’s straight out of 1970s Barcelona, and there’s no leafier spot for an aperitif than one of the streetside seats. Geeky bartending books and glassware are for retail sale too.

60 Kings Cross Road, Rushcutters Bay, vermuteria.com.au

Where’s Nick

There are wine bars with plusher fitouts and more highfalutin food, but few are more convivial, like a good mate’s lounge room. Chef Leila Khazma’s farinata pancakes and beef carpaccio are worth the trip alone, while co-owner Bridget Raffal’s wine list gets better and better with age. Expect a thrilling selection of international bottles, and an inspired list of local producers waiting to be unearthed.

236 Marrickville Road, Marrickville, wheresnick.com.au

Wildflower Brewing & Blending

Looking every bit like a Belgian farmhouse, Wildflower was already our favourite industrial estate brewery. Then A.P. Bakery started doing pork ribs, pies and potato salad, and the deliciousness level doubled. When staff aren’t choosing a vinyl to spin (George Benson; Nashville Skyline; psychedelic African desert blues), they’re guiding guests through the range of barrel-aged ales, guest beers, wines and local kombuchas.

11-13 Brompton Street, Marrickville, wildflowerbeer.com

The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide 2024 is on sale now at newsagents, supermarkets and thestore.com.au.