One Trick Pony is a rebirth in more than one sense. The corner it occupies is no longer home to the North Fitzroy Star pub, which was developed into townhouses, but the bar is a small reclamation of space for locals.

It's also a rebirth of chef Chris Terlikar's cooking career. Before he started Bluebonnet Barbecue eight years ago, Terlikar worked at fine-dining restaurants, including in London, Vancouver and at Public in New York.

"It's so good to have that freedom again," he says. "There's only so many times you can cook a brisket."

At One Trick Pony, Terlikar is overseeing a small menu that changes every week, one of the luxuries of a 28-seat restaurant.

Rabbit cavatelli, pig's head terrine and turbot with broad beans were recently spotted on the menu, along with lesser-loved proteins like beef heart or goat. These can be paired with a dry martini or a manhattan from the cocktail trolley wheeled around by manager Simon George-Gamlyn (ex Supper Club).

Otherwise, 150 bottles of mostly European and Australian wines line the shelves downstairs - just add $25 corkage. The list by Ben Skipper (ex Saint Crispin) mostly highlights minimal intervention winemaking; he'll be using the bluestone cellar for special drops.

Terlikar and partner Shayne McConachy have been waiting three years for the restaurant to emerge; in that time they've had a child of their own, born 15 weeks ago.

Designers IF Architecture installed brass shelving in the wine shop downstairs, with an elongated grey marble bar for a handful of seats. The first-floor dining room is stripped-back to white walls and timber, which leave room for murals by Terlikar's brother, Joe. His small paintings are an ode to the neighbourhood's buildings, residents and natural features, and will continue to multiply in number.

"We know the clientele, I love the neighbourhood, it's a great little pocket of Melbourne," says Chris Terlikar.

We asked him for his tips on how to get the most out of a visit to One Trick Pony.

What are your three must-order dishes?

From today's menu, I'd go the Koo Wee Rup asparagus with smoked tomato hollandaise, and Tete de Moine cheese. Add the grilled beef heart paired with salsa verde and pickled shallot. And people are loving the cured trout in kataifi (pastry threads). I use a cannoli tube and pipe in a mix of trout, creme fraiche and horseradish, and then we finish it with the Bloody Shiraz Gin caviar from Yarra Valley Caviar.

What's your pick of the drinks list?

I'm loving anything from the cocktail trolley. Simon is a very charismatic guy, so it's hard to refuse anything from his trolley. He makes an incredible martini, using Hayman's gin, and he mixes it tableside.

Best seat in the house?

I don't think there's a bad one to be honest. You're either sitting by the kitchen or you're sitting at the window, overlooking the roundabout we sit on and a beautiful little pocket of Fitzroy North. There's only 28 seats and the space is about 35 square metres, so there's not really a bad spot.

Do people need to book?

We are getting a lot of walk-ins but our bookings tend to fill on weekends.

What's the best time of day to visit?

I would say anytime around sunset. Grab a seat upstairs and watch the light change.

Open daily 5.30pm-10pm

6 Newry Street, Fitzroy North, 03 9482 2247, otp-wine.com.au