​The top end of Australian eating out has been reinvented as an experience in studied casual and deconstruction. And those early experiments in 'Asian fusion' have matured into the sophisticated and exciting use of ingredients that work and make sense together, and the best of Europe has joined Asia on the Australasian plate.

This has left little room for the now-old style of formal eating out. And it makes you consider, as you ponder the excellent-ness of Mezzalira, why this one works so well.

There's a grandness about the Mezzalira's Melbourne Building setting and influential corner location, and an undoubted special occasion feel about the place. But it avoids being stuffy and formal, and feels, in fact, airy, relaxed and lovely. The furniture is gorgeous, simple lines, beautifully proportioned modern little couches, all light wood and leather, although how restaurants can afford this standard of design is a mystery to us.

Mezzalira has been here for 20 years and has been through some moribund times, but in the past few years we have enjoyed every visit. And our most recent was probably the best of them all. Mezzalira really feels on top of its game and right up there with the best in Canberra.

Start with bread from the wood-fired oven, warm, crispy and soft at the same time, so much olive oil, salt and rosemary. Even though we know what we're getting with this bread, we order it every time nevertheless. Speaking of which, if I didn't have it every time I visit sister restaurant Italian and Sons, I'd also be ordering the sardines – which come in a simple Italian-style sweet-and-sour mix of pinenuts, currants and vinegar. Irresistible.

While cured fish is generally not my first choice at a restaurant, we are persuaded to order the tuna crudo from the specials board, and we are so very happy with the result. The tuna is smoked in-house and served with pink peppercorns, almond cream and baby basil. The fish is melty but doesn't disappear without leaving its flavour and texture with you; it lasts. It's simple with olive oil and such gentle smoking, but substantial in its impact. Such thin slices, such beautiful flavour. This is a phenomenal dish. If it's still there when you visit, order it.

The zucchini flowers with goat's chevre and salsa rossa ($22) is a much more rustic affair. Mezzalira is not constrained by the divide between refined Italian and country Italian – it does both. The three little zucchini are still attached to their flowers, which are filled with a gentle goat's cheese, cleanly and lightly battered and fried, and served on top of a red pepper salsa with parmesan. It's a good handling of a ubiquitous dish.

Seared scallops with smoked eel and jerusalem artichoke ($19) is another really good entree, the scallops meaty, the artichoke more delicate than grungy as this excellent vegetable so often is, with an appealing note added by the tiny pieces of smoked eel.

Mezzalira and Italian and Sons offer excellent wine lists, with a proper and welcome focus on Italy in the wines-by-the- glass as well as bottle. The Italian focus is not to the neglect of other top winemakers in our region, and especially in Canberra, where the top local wines are given good billing. Mezzalira offers eight vintages of Canberra's most prized wine, Clonakilla shiraz viognier, although I've never quite understood how to make the best of this largesse. Dine with 20 people, I suppose, and request eight glasses each for a vertical tasting. Yes, that would do it.

We're drinking Chambave Muscat 2013 from Italian maker La Crotta Di Vegneron ($16 glass, $50 450ml, $66 bottle), a flinty white with plenty of substance.

Duck liver adds the scary thrill of offal to slow-roasted duck, with Cantiano cherries, duck-liver and spinach ($38). Two duck legs are seared hard on the skin, with rich soft meat, the dark cherries are beautiful and there's a crunchy little piece of bacon with the spinach. 

The lamb pasta – "hand-rolled pici in bianco, suckling lamb, rosemary and white wine ragu, lemon gremolata" ($19 entree, $29 main) – is likewise rich, with a gutsy tomato sauce, long thin tubes of fresh pasta and chunks of lamb. The pasta dishes here are always deeply comforting.

Tiramisu ($16) has a rich custard on top, and creamy layers. It's strong and good, but for me it's a bit light in the sponge. I like tiramisu in its heaviest, richest form.

The caramelised lemon curd tart, sheep's milk yoghurt sorbetto and citrus compote ($16) is a study in lemon – a simple tart lemon curd, with slivers of lemon and mandarin, shavings of lime zest, and a soothing gelato. Pretty and delicious. 

Things have been really good tonight, such that we depart confident in recommending Mezzalira as one of the best places to eat out, not for rough-and-tumble fun, but for an elegant, special meal.