There's something a little different about CicciaBella, the latest in a long line of restaurants run by the famously fastidious Maurice Terzini.

When the Bondi eatery opens it'll be a rare reimagining for Terzini.

The veteran restaurateur closed Da Orazio and is opening CicciaBella in its place, having recruited chef Mitch Orr (ACME).

"Da Orazio was designed to be a local pizzeria, this is designed to be a local osteria with a punk twist."

And there's always been a bit of punk in Terzini. There's a street approach to the art, and words subtly projected from the light fittings.

"It's a bit kookier and darker. I wanted to create somewhere you can find a warm corner in Bondi at 9pm during the week," he says.

The opening menu darts from maltagliati, braised rabbit and pistachio to flathead from the wood fire with seaweed butter and lemon and a finish of grapefruit granita with vanilla buffalo yoghurt.

Wash it down with a Harvey Wallbanger or something from the kicking wine list.

"I think it's one of the best small wine lists in town," Terzini says.

Open lunch Sat-Sun; dinner daily.

75-79 Hall Street, Bondi Beach, 02 8090 6969, cicciabella.com.au.