Forget footy, lockdowns or the economy: if there's one issue that can spark lively debate in Australia, it's whether you should be able to bring your own bottle of wine to a restaurant. Some say BYO robs restaurants of revenue, others argue it gets bums on seats – some of whom bring very nice bottles from their cellar.

In the current pandemic economy, though, does this uniquely Australian tradition have a future?

Anna Pavoni, co-owner of Chiosco by Ormeggio in Sydney's well-heeled Mosman, says her venue's BYO isn't going anywhere. Premium domaines and crus are what's normally brought by Chiosco's customers, along with lots of French champagne.

"It makes the venue so welcoming and so easy to visit. That's really where we see the benefits and successes of having BYO," she says, adding that Chiosco is fundamentally a neighbourhood restaurant.

In Italy, where Chiosco's chef, Alessandro Pavoni, is from, BYO is non-existent. "But now he's a convert," Anna says.

"It's very Italian to have a fantastic local trattoria, somewhere you visit every day. That was really at the crux of it. A really uniquely Australian part of your great local restaurant is having that BYO option."

Beginning officially in the mid 1960s, allowing guests to bring their own wine was a way for restaurants to work around restrictive and expensive liquor licences in many states. Today's BYO is a different beast to what many diners can remember of negligible corkage fees and no restaurant wine list to speak of.

Many venues are scaling BYO back or removing it. France-Soir, a popular South Yarra destination for wine buffs and their bottles of Burgundy, has reduced the times you can BYO. Outside those hours, the epic wine list is at your disposal.

In Sydney, Tetsuya's upscale BYO at corkage of $30 is a thing of the past, although it wound up in 2019 because of margins and the way punters were using it.

Casual Melbourne pizzeria Ladro has gone from offering BYO every night pre-COVID to doing a special charity night on Mondays only. Corkage is just $5 and that fee is donated to organisations such as Prahran Mission and StreetSmart.

Very early in the pandemic, owner Sean Kierce paused all BYO for hygiene reasons. Later in 2020, it was about recovering lost revenue. But he says the Monday night BYO for charity is an important part of the restaurant's values, so it's back.

Wine judge, writer and educator Philip Rich says that consistently busy venues don't need to bother with BYO, but new venues can use it to build goodwill and loyalty. He can think of at least two new Melbourne restaurants he visits frequently because he is able to bring his own wine and drink it from quality glasses.

Al Dente in Carlton North is one of them, charging $20 a bottle. Manager Michelle Badek says she appreciates if customers ask before bringing a bottle, but loves that her staff can experience rare wines such as a $900 Barolo. Often, guests bringing these heavy-hitters will share tasters with the staff.

"It's really nice to have that sharing dynamic and provide that space for our customers and staff."

Matching great cellar picks with your favourite dish is what Rich loves about BYO.

"It's a good chance for wine people to get together and drink great wines in each other's company with good food."

It also creates goodwill, he adds, pointing out that many bottle-toting customers splash out on other items.

Anna Pavoni agrees. "People think: I've brought a bottle of wine, I'll splurge and have a cocktail to start and have a limoncello at the end."

But English chef-restaurateur Simon Sandall, of Boronia Kitchen, says the numbers don't stack up for him. His restaurant in Gladesville, on Sydney's north shore, is in prime BYO territory but he focuses instead on building a good cellar and training staff in wine knowledge and service. Those services don't pay for themselves.

"It's one element of the business, but obviously it helps us make a margin that keeps the doors open," Sandall says.

"All through my career I've made a point of saying yes, if we can do it, then yes. But that's probably the only thing I'll say no to. It just doesn't make business sense."

Cost concerns are real right now, across everything from red meat to napkins to shipping of imported goods.

Wine-lover's haunt Scopri, in Melbourne's inner-north, recently considered axing its BYO on weekends to cover weekend staff rates. But after canvassing the idea with customers, owner Anthony Scutella has decided to increase the corkage charge. "Most of our customers don't mind what we charge, as long as we're happy for them to bring our wines.

"We get to see some of the most amazing wines: Romanee-Conti, Chateau Margaux, top-end Barolos."

Aside from the cost of well-trained staff to open, pour and perhaps even decant those special bottles, all BYO venues must provide and wash glasses, replace breakages and so on.

Ladro's Sean Kierce agrees that restaurants need to cover their costs, particularly after the past two years. He's considering bringing back BYO on the other nights that Ladro trades but will wait and see what the next few months hold.

"I would be sad if it died out … But people need to understand that if you do bring your own wine in, you've got to be prepared to pay for it."

Scutella says BYO has been built into the business model of Scopri, which opened 12 years ago.

Rich also believes BYO still has a place. "Maybe the days of restaurants that are exclusively BYO are gone. But I think having both makes sense."

While you may have to pay more for the privilege, it seems that, for now, BYO is here to stay.

Sydney's best BYO restaurants

Chiosco by Ormeggio

If Ormeggio is the neat older sibling, Chiosco is the relaxed younger brother, the barefoot one who throws together a summery caprese salad. And while he has great taste in wine, he also lets you bring your own. Keep it casual, or make like the locals and push the boat out. Corkage: $15 a bottle. The Jetty, d'Albora Marina, Spit Road, Mosman

Sang by Mabasa

There's a sharp drinks list (think Kloud beer or Hallasan soju), but why not bring something fresh to carry you through a set menu that might include pipis stir-fried in gochujang and standout sweet-spicy fried chicken? Corkage: $10 a person. 98 Fitzroy Street, Surry Hills

Sean's

BYO brings wider scope to those long lunches overlooking Bondi. Have something you've been cellaring for a while? Drink it here. Corkage: $25 a bottle. 270 Campbell Parade, North Bondi

Yakitori Jin

Bring whatever you fancy pairing with hits from the robata, be it tsukune, okra, thigh skewers or wagyu tri tip. Corkage: $4.50 a person. 101 Ramsay Street, Haberfield

Emma's Snack Bar

Swing past nearby P&V Wine + Liquor Merchants and pick up something skinsy to up the ante on lamb-strewn hummus, crunchy pickles and more. Corkage: $5 a person. 59 Liberty Street, Enmore

Melbourne's best BYO restaurants

Ladro

With a tiny corkage fee that goes straight to charity, Ladro's Monday night BYO sounds like an invitation to rally the troops for a start-of-the-week Italian feast. Corkage: $5 a bottle. 224 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy; 162 Greville Street, Prahran

Ocha

Alongside sophisticated Japanese fare – think pristine sushi and sashimi, and heartier dishes such as konbu beef or miso black cod – chef and owner Yasu Yoshida allows diners to BYO wine for lunchtime bookings and on Wednesday nights. Corkage: $15 a person. 3 Church Street, Hawthorn

Pacific Seafood BBQ House

Make for the flock of golden-breasted Peking ducks you'll see hanging by their necks in the front window, grab a table among the tanks of live seafood, and dive in – with a bottle of something great, of course. Corkage: $6 a bottle (South Yarra); $3 a person (Richmond). Shop 1, 210 Toorak Road, South Yarra; 8/240 Victoria Street, Richmond.

Scopri

Expect traditional antipasti, primi, secondi and dolce from the 20 regions of Italy, highlighting biodynamic produce from the restaurant's own Macedon Ranges farm. And, if you like, something from your own cellar (or one of their 300 bottles). Corkage: $25 a bottle weekdays, $30 weekends. 191 Nicholson Street, Carlton.

Teta Mona

Located opposite one of Melbourne's best bottle shops, Blackhearts & Sparrows, this homely Lebanese restaurant serves crunchy halloumi-filled pastries, hearty fatteh and bright dips that will make you smile. Corkage $5 a person. 100a Lygon Street, Brunswick East.

with David Matthews and Anna Webster