This locals’ hangout isn’t flash, but it sets the bar for everything a good country pub should be.

Inside, there’s footy on the TV and local craft brews on tap. In the beer garden out back, at least one dog can reliably be found napping under a table.

Grab a spot, some cutlery and order at the bar for premium pub fare: smart snacks such as salt cod croquettes offset by a zingy capsicum and caper salsa, and barramundi sliders with lime-cabbage pickle. A prawn and pork belly curry is delicately flavoured with turmeric and citrus, and grilled chicken breast is fragrant with lemongrass, paired with spicy slaw and velvety satay sauce.

There are steaks, roasts and wagyu bangers and mash for traditionalists, even if desserts are an afterthought. No airs and graces, just great food at a decent price. Little wonder locals love it.