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The menu here is a vast tome, and phoning to pre-order pays off. Advance notice is required for kong fu soup, its aromatic broth brimming with black chicken and abalone.

Seafood is treated reverently in the Cantonese style. Coral trout is netted from on-site tanks before mingling with young ginger, snowpeas and carrots, while dried flying-fish roe provides umami bursts to scallop fried rice. Siu yuk lives up to its reputation as some of the best roast pork in town.

Tables are topped with butcher’s paper, and an underperforming wine list practically mandates BYO. But that’s all offset by jovial waitstaff as adept at dividing dishes tableside and ensuring your chrysanthemum tea never runs dry as they are at keeping kids happy, offering lollipops and the occasional high-five. Inner children will be satisfied, too, with honey-drenched deep-fried ice-cream.