The low-key space at Khabbay is welcoming to energetic kids and loud adults alike, and is at its best when every red vinyl seat is occupied. Tear apart kalwanji naan – its top dotted with nutty nigella seeds – to mop up one of the many fragrant braised meats.

Beef nihari is made using shank and marrow, slow cooked with a chilli-paprika spice mix until a vibrant red oil forms on top. Chicken handi is a milder option, tangy with yoghurt and tomato. Friendly, sometimes scarce staff navigate three large dining areas, happily schooling those who need it in lesser-known Pakistani and Indian dishes.

To finish, there’s more warming spice, this time in the form of cardamom and ginger-accented masala chai delivered in paper cups.