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This neon-lit restaurant doesn’t start charging entry once the chef knocks off, but it could. The Tequila Sunrise on the iPad menu and the sheer glitz of the fitout suggest you might be here until dawn.

The fun starts with an unlikely suspect – chives. They’re grilled and covered with cumin and chilli flakes, just like the chuanr lamb skewers. Order both for a textural mash-up. Chilli bedazzled chicken laziji is a fiery addition to any order, set alight before your eyes. But the headliner is the fish. Sometimes Murray cod, sometimes barramundi, it’s flash fried then boiled in crimson-hued chilli hot-pot stock at the table.

Plunge your favourite snacks, such as enoki mushrooms and instant noodles, into the pot too. Ain’t no party like a Chef David party ’cause this party serves bullfrogs: hot, numbing and coated in spicy Sichuan oil.