Golden Century is back. Well, sort of. The Sydney dining institution, which shut in tumultuous circumstances in 2021, has returned with a new spin-off.

But don't expect the wall of fresh seafood tanks and the luxe wine bar of its old digs. The reincarnation, which quietly started trading in recent days, has a modest 40 seats on the ground floor of Kengo Kuma's Exchange Building at Darling Square, is takeaway friendly and veers away from seafood.

"It's a classic Cantonese barbecue with roast duck and pork," Golden Century scion Billy Wong tells Good Food.

With long-term players such as BBQ King closing in recent years, there was a gap in the market that Golden Century BBQ hopes to fill.

The modest new eatery sits below XOPP, which Wong describes as now covering GC turf, having adopted its menu and brought its chef across. He confirmed they won't be returning to the old Sussex Street building.

"There's a really good vibe at Darling Square," Wong explains.

And the timeless appeal of Hong Kong-style barbecue – which he likens to Australians grabbing a rotisserie bird from the local chicken shop – gives it a broad appeal for locals and families. A dish with rice is priced in the low $20s.

As well as duck, pork belly is on the menu. "We're doing some dim sum on the side," says Wong. "Down the track we'll include scallop."

Golden Century founders Eric and Linda Wong received The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide 2023 Vittoria Coffee Legend Award for providing generations of chefs, families, politicians and celebrities with pristine seafood and democratic late-night dining.

Open Wed-Mon 11.30am-8.30pm, shop 1, 1 Little Pier Street, Haymarket, goldencentury.com.au