The lunch-time yum cha is several notches in quality above average and the atmosphere is way less frenzied too. A la carte options skew toward Guangzhou, with a few forays into other provinces (Shandong chicken, pork in Sichuan sauce) along the way. Aussie exotics (croc and 'roo) feature amid the list of Chef's Suggestions in a handful of stir-fries. 'P.R.' duck arrives as a textural statement of the crispest skin and the meltingest roasted flesh, served with a moreish hoisin-based dipping sauce. Stir-fried salmon fillet with ginger and shallot is a reminder of everything the Cantonese do so well, balancing subtle flavours, employing careful cooking techniques and utilising fresher-than-fresh produce. Few concessions are made to Western presentation sensibilities, so don't judge that broccoli with crab by its cornflour-thickened white sauce blanket. It's chock-full of rich, crustaceous meat and tastes, despite appearances, utterly delish.