First things first: try the fried chicken. ‘Gai todt had yai’ on the menu, it comes in pieces, on the bone, with whisper-thin skin that shatters as you bite. Topped with coriander seed and crunchy fried onions, it’s got bags of flavour, and that’s before you’ve dipped into the side of jammy chilli sauce. The chook’s not the only drawcard at this two-storey eatery with dark timber and exposed brick decor. There’s also a colourful line-up of fruity drinks; springy, spongy fish cakes; the mild, tangy ‘Mellow Curry’; and service as sweet as a dessert of warm coconut milk and banana.