At 9am, hungry Pananians know where to get their daily bread. That's when Lisbon Love's pane di casa come out of the oven. The loaves and rolls, firm on the inside, crisp on the outer, disappear quickly and, by noon, as the bell on the church across the road tolls, the bread baskets are empty.

This cafe-patisserie has an elegant European feel, with its glass entrance, polished tiles and dark wooden tables and chairs. Behind the coffee machine is Dennis D'Agostino, and Paula Ferreira takes breakfast, lunch and snacks to tables. Customers spill onto the pavement.

Born and bred in Haberfield, D'Agostino is married to Ferreira's daughter. His father-in-law, Fernando Ferreira, is master patissier behind the Portuguese treats.

Ex-Lisbonites Paula and Fernando have lived in Australia for 21 years and opened Lisbon Love two years ago.

The smooth Amanti coffee is roasted in Melbourne. Menu options include sun-dried tomato, eggplant, cheese and chilli chicken on a Lisbon Love roll ($6.50); chorizo bread, a delicious Portuguese-style roll; and home-made pies.

Portuguese tarts ($2.80) are the real deal, and the almond roll ($3 slice; $28 whole) is a specialty from the Algarve. There are also apple tarts and gluten-free banana cake.

People stream in - ladies after a morning at bowls, mothers with prams. And on Sundays, parishioners leaving St Christopher's amble across the road for some more love.

Lisbon Love Patisserie

Address 188 Tower Street, Panania, 8764 1102

Open Tues-Fri, 8am-5pm; Sat, 8am-3pm; Sun, 8am-1pm

Reviewer's rating 3.5/5