The kotatsu seating here takes communal dining to a new level of intimate with diners, sunken low and shoes off, bonding over charcoaled yakitori (skewered meats and organs) dunked in sweet soy. The youthful local crowd laps up the cosy vibe and cowboy hat-wearing chef cranking out hearty ramen, elegant sushi and rice with toppings such as salmon and eel in lacquered containers. Pressed sushi of vinegared mackerel achieves the delicate balance of sweet and acidic, as does Jap’s signature leafy salad topped with sliced sweet tofu skin. A new izakaya by the same owner, Chiki Chiki Sakaba, is now open on Bourke Street in Redfern.