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First look at L’Enclume’s $420 ‘once-in-a-lifetime’ three-Michelin-starred experience in Sydney

“This is 20 years of dishes, some of which have never been seen outside L’Enclume before.”

Bianca Hrovat
Bianca Hrovat

The appetite for high-profile international restaurant residencies continues unabated in Sydney, where UK fine diner L’Enclume has sold out its five-week stint despite a $420-per-head price tag.

The L’Enclume residency at Bathers’ Pavilion in Balmoral begins today, offering Australian diners their first taste of head chef Simon Rogan’s signature farm-to-fork three-Michelin-star cuisine.

Three-Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan with his team at the Bathers’ Pavilion just before opening.
Three-Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan with his team at the Bathers’ Pavilion just before opening.Edwina Pickles

It is the fifth such residency in Sydney, following Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and Eleven Madison Park at Aria, Maaemo at Berowra Waters Inn and Mirazur at The Gantry earlier in the year. But this time around, it’s a residency more than three years in the making, with specialist crockery made and rare produce grown in NSW specifically for the event.

“It’s not only a massive, once-in-a-lifetime experience for our guests, but it’s also a once-in-a-lifetime experience for me as well,” Rogan tells Good Food.

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“This is 20 years of dishes, some older than others, some of which have never been seen outside of L’Enclume before.

“I am desperate for this to go off as a massive hit.”

Good Food has an exclusive first look at the eight-course menu (plus snacks and petits fours), which gives each of the signature L’Enclume dishes a distinctly Australian flavour.

Among them is the seaweed custard with beef broth and bone marrow – where Maldon oysters have been replaced with plump, briny royal miyagi oysters produced in Tasmania’s Boomer Bay.

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The dish arrives (with oscietra caviar and tweezered candied sea kelp) in hand-thrown bowls by Blackheath ceramic artist Simon Reece, with a hand-carved spoon by Potts Point woodworker Ted O’Donnell.

Seaweed custard, beef broth and bone marrow, royal miyagi oysters, oscietra caviar.
Seaweed custard, beef broth and bone marrow, royal miyagi oysters, oscietra caviar.Edwina Pickles

The menu also features organic Dorper lamb loin from remote saltbush grazing country in South Australia, served with turnip and fig leaf vinegar; Tasmanian ocean trout cured in pine salt; Fraser Island spanner crab and potatoes cooked in chicken fat, with horseradish and roast chicken skin; and strawberries, bee pollen, chamomile cake, milk ice-cream and cream of sweet herbs.

“Guests should feel as though they’re sampling the best of the local area, keeping within that [farm-to-fork] L’Enclume ethos,” Rogan says.

“Over the years, our food has become a lot simpler as we’ve focused on allowing those amazing ingredients to really shine.

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“But, of course, people want to see a level of cookery they can’t do themselves, especially at a three-star level. There are a lot of things that go into making each dish − it’s just not in your face.”

L’Enclume’s dessert of strawberries, bee pollen, chamomile cake, milk ice-cream and cream of sweet herbs.
L’Enclume’s dessert of strawberries, bee pollen, chamomile cake, milk ice-cream and cream of sweet herbs. Edwina Pickles

The menu

  • Boltardy beetroot and pickled radish tartlet, trout eggs marinated in ponzu
  • Tasmanian ocean trout cured in pine salt
  • Fritter of Bundarra pig and smoked eel, lovage and fermented sweetcorn
  • Yarrawa (cheese) pudding caramelised in maple syrup, stout vinegar, aged Yarrawa
  • Raw blue mackerel in coal oil, kombu jam, noriko kohlrabi and perilla
  • Fraser Island spanner crab and potatoes in chicken fat, horseradish and roast chicken skin
  • Seaweed custard, beef broth and bone marrow, royal miyagi oysters, oscietra caviar
  • Jerusalem artichokes and crosnes, buried in aromats, La Luna goat’s cheese, chrysanthemum
  • Leopard rockcod and courgette, fennel pollen, marron and rosehips
  • Dorper saltbush lamb loin, turnip and fig leaf vinegar, ragout, fermented runner beans and black garlic
  • Frozen Tunworth cheese, champagne rhubarb, buckwheat crumb, lemon thyme
  • Camarosa strawberries, bee pollen, chamomile cake, milk ice-cream and cream of sweet herbs
  • “Anvil” − caramel mousse with our miso, winter apple and spruce
  • Petits fours: verbena chocolate; Kendal mint stones; Malfroy’s honey pastels

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Bianca HrovatBianca HrovatBianca is Good Food's Sydney-based reporter.

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/first-look-at-l-enclume-s-420-once-in-a-lifetime-three-michelin-starred-experience-in-sydney-20230718-p5dp6k.html