Upstairs in the ageing Piccadilly Shopping Centre on Pitt Street, you’ll find red-and-gold walls and (mostly) great service at this yum cha mainstay.

Must-haves include crowd-pleasing char siu buns, lacy taro puffs, richly spiced honeycomb tripe and pretty much anything from the wide range of steamed dumplings: expertly pleated har gow pudgy with fat prawns, bouncy scallop siu mai, and garlic chive jiaozi, just for starters.

Trolleys glide and Tsingtao is popped by a broad church that includes hungover students, Chinese families and food critics chinwagging over chicken feet. Regulars seek out the zhaliang: deep-fried youtiao bread sticks wrapped in silky rice noodle and stuffed with prawns. Brilliant.

There’s an a la carte menu if you’re in the zone for steamed coral trout or whole roast duck, but we find the best value lies with all that dim sum.