A three-decade-old Chinatown essential where eating is guided by cravings far more than the clock. A late afternoon pork pepper bun enveloped in sesame-encrusted pastry? Can do. Mid-morning fried youtiao dough stick to dip in warm soy milk? Come on down. Crisp-fried chicken is a crowd favourite too, plus the beef noodle soup, shallot pancakes and congee.