This is the kind of moody, European-influenced bistro you might expect to find in Melbourne. Funny, that. Nikky Wilson used to manage Melbourne’s MoVida, where Ewen Crawford cheffed for 11 years. Nikky’s twin sister Danni, meanwhile, cooked at hatted Carlton Wine Room. Now, with warmth and grace, the trio run Murwillumbah’s best and buzziest bistro in a charmingly detailed dining room. It’s also our Regional Restaurant of the Year. Tuck into Cantabrian anchovies with celtuce, creamy whipped mullet roe with baby radishes and the benchmark chocolate mousse cake; it’s all good. Ox tongue is folded over green goddess sauce, and hand-picked Pottsville spanner crab cleverly comes with caviar accompaniments including egg yolk, sour cream and pickled jicama. Tender slow-cooked goat from Three Paddock Farm is so wonderfully scented with marsala, mandarin and star anise, it’s lucky the wine list is equally enticing.