Vue de Monde has always been good at theatre. Being 236 metres above sea level helps, as do fine-dining trappings both exalted (Christofle cutlery) and modern (liquid nitrogen poured at the table). But after four years on the 55th floor, Vue de Monde offers a more relaxed and innovative performance and the experience is better than ever. Delicious juxtapositions of highfalutin and lowbrow are many: parson’s nose – the butt-end of a chicken – is topped with caviar; barramundi cheek is extracted tableside from a yawning maw and served as finger food with garlicky duck fat ‘butter’. It’s luxury, but we’re laughing. Honouring Australian ingredients is a focus: marron, kangaroo and local berries and herbs are rendered with respect. There’s less veneration for the traditional progression of a meal from seafood to meat to sweet. Chocolate turns up in a canape, crab is served just before dessert, but the journey is unerringly delightful.

And … The adjacent Lui Bar has cheapish snacks and the same view.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Surprisingly light-hearted.
Best bit The heady haute cuisine. 
Worst bit Early diners only get a two-hour booking.