Thirteen steps is the distance diners descend to this new cellar bar and bistro, in the heart of Bright. Opened by two tree-changing couples, each with young children and vibrant big-city hospitality credits (variously Toofey's, Stokehouse, Luxe, Birdman Eating, with paths crossed at Fitzroy's Guernica), theirs is an urbane dream come true in the country. From smoked Harrietville trout with a lusty green sauce (parsley, capers, lemon, etc), to a wondrously rich parmesan custard puddle with a Yackandandah olive tapenade and crisp greens, to Wangaratta duck cooked with coconut and kaffir lime leaves and finished with Chinese cabbage and pickled green papaya, here is accomplished cookery paired with knowing service. And for afters? Try sweetcorn cream with popcorn ice-cream. Bentwood chairs, banquettes, lacquered stone walls - it's a boho ambience that has you thinking Berlin or New York, right in the belly of Bright.