The Polish Jester has moved out of Warburton, taking his dowdy decor and tasty cabbage rolls with him. In his place comes Little Joe, a pizzeria with white-washed walls, wide windows and enough reclaimed wood to give it Steiner soul. Behind the workbench can be seen the glowing ottoman-tiled wood oven, which gives the pizzas their delectable bubbled edges and chewy bases. And toppings such as fior di latte cut through with Istra calabrese, or straight-up margherita, will satisfy all on the pernickety spectrum. Dips, salads and arancini round out the menu well. They are familiar yet well-executed flavours.