The fire is ready to be lit and records are poised to be spun for the first diners at Lilac Wine Bar, opening on Friday behind an unassuming facade among rows of warehouses in Cremorne.

Nathan Toleman of The Mulberry Group (Hazel, Dessous, Liminal) says the backstreet location enhances the warmth he's tried to create inside the former warehouse, the first venue in several years that he's designed himself.

"It's got a kind of a rawness and an industrial edge to it, but it's also really homely."

Auction finds, a vintage couch, floor rugs and furniture seconds kit out the 100-seat space, as does a record player and restored 1970 Tannoy speakers.

The opening team includes head chef Kyle Nicol (ex Rascal, Brunswick), sommelier Richard Buck (ex Aru, Melbourne) and venue manager slash sake enthusiast Charlotte Martin (ex Shobosho in Adelaide).

Cooking on a large brick hearth and grill, Nicol is giving star billing to humble plates, including his updated version of "meat and three veg", which might look like lamb belly with rainbow chard and carrot butter.

"It's things that I grew up eating at my nan's house but making it a little bit more restauranty."

Offal is a focus but Nicol wants to present it in ways and textures that are familiar. His opening argument for lesser-loved animal parts includes smoked beef hearts, sliced thinly and served with grilled greens. Toleman's 10-year-old son mistook the meat for a type of ham. One diner down, a few hundred to go.

There's also a snack dubbed savoury mince involving smoked and brined hearts and livers, seasoned with curry powder and horseradish and served on toasted brioche.

Cheese, bread and charcuterie, such as five-spice and Sichuan bresaola, are all made in-house, while a lovingly assembled line-up of nearby producers includes Barongarook Pork, Day's Walk Farm and the group's own Common Ground Project.

The wine list also favours the biodynamic, local and boutique.

Stay tuned for plans to use Sunday lunches to trial new dishes and pour magnums.

Open Wed-Thu 4pm-late, Fri-Sat noon-late, Sun 11am-5pm

31 Stephenson Street, Cremorne, no phone, lilacwinebar.com.au

• Besha Rodell reviews Dessous