Chef Luke Mangan is extending his Sydney dining portfolio to his hometown of Melbourne, opening a French bistro in an overlooked part of the CBD this winter. Bistrot Bisou will bring red leather, marble and splashes of gold to the restaurant of Hotel Indigo Melbourne on Flinders, previously home to the short-lived Spanish restaurant Beso.

Mangan says he’s been thinking about opening a venue in Melbourne for some time, but was waiting for the right location.

“I like that end of town,” he says. “There’s lots of traffic that goes through, with the station [Southern Cross] being so close and the football ground [Marvel Stadium] and lots of hotels. It’s a different end of town that we can add something to.”

The chef has run venues in the heart of Sydney for more than 20 years, from one in a pylon of the Sydney Harbour Bridge to others in major hotels and even the airport. He has also taken his restaurants to Singapore, Japan and cruise ships.

But aside from a brief dalliance in 2010 with upscale South Melbourne pub The Palace by Luke Mangan, Melbourne has escaped his gaze.

Bisou is another chapter in Melbourne’s recent bistro love affair, joining French openings including Reine & La Rue, Bar Magnolia and Smith St Bistrot, plus the forthcoming Batard by Chris Lucas.

It will serve contemporary takes on twice-baked gruyere souffle, creme brulee and apple tarte tatin, plus house-made terrines, steak frites and dishes from the kitchen’s wood grill.

“To me, Melbourne’s always had that European feel,” says Mangan. “This style of food suits it really well.”

Rory Kennedy, former co-owner of Northcote’s hatted Vex Dining, is head chef.

Bistrot Bisou opens in early June.

575 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, bistrotbisou.com.au