What is it?

St Kilda's summer sorted. It's indoor and outdoor. It's a pumping pub with a fine-dining chef at the helm. It's a rollicking hangout, a low-key boozer and a classy cocktail bar all at once. It's the all-new Village Belle Hotel, which has just reopened after a $15 million refashioning.

The 1891 corner building has been restored with original details lovingly reinstated, arched windows and parapets among them. Abutting the original brick building is a huge steel and glass atrium with a retractable roof and windows that can be winched skywards when the weather is kind.

It's big, extending over two levels with four distinct zones offering seating for 350 and standing room for 800. And it's good: the atrium is the hero but the front bar feels both vintage and fresh and the history of the building and its place as a local lounge room has been honoured. (And I'm sure it's not just because my husband and I had our first sparky encounter here.)

Who's behind it?

There are four owners, brothers David and Stephen Shannon, their brother-in-law Brett Cuthbert and long-time employee and mate Mark Burnett. They've been associated with venues around the country, including Yeppoon's Strand Hotel, the Mullaloo Beach Hotel in Perth and Chapel Street's Frost Bites, which specialised in slushy cocktails around the turn of the millennium.

Their relationship with the Village Belle is long and close: they've owned it for 11 years and Mark Burnett even used to live in an apartment tucked out the back of the upstairs function room. The current reinvigoration, in the hands of Techne architects, has been a long time coming.

Chef Mat Macartney (ex-Lake House, Chateau Yering and Char) has his work cut out for him wrangling this beast. His menu treads a nice line and is both approachable and classy. Grilled scampi comes with rocket, fennel and citrus; a vegetarian pizza is topped with artichoke and goat's cheese; chicken comes as a classic parma or roasted and served with honeyed carrots.

Why we're excited

The space is astonishing, soaring and sun-soaked but sheltered, too. It's open to St Kilda's breezy charms and has great views down Acland Street. We're also fizzing with excitement about the summery cocktail list: the Belle-ini pairs white peach with sparkling wine, and the Rose Sangria is available in pitchers as well as by the glass.

Open Mon-Wed 9am-1am, Thu-Sat 9am-3am, Sun 10am-midnight. Kitchen daily 11am-late.

202 Barkly Street, St Kilda, 03 9525 4000, villagebelle.com.au