It may have taken a while, but two years after Good Food first reported Totti's was headed into Rozelle's 3 Weeds, it has finally arrived.

Merivale's breakout hit at The Royal Bondi – it has already spread its wings to the Sydney CBD with Bar Totti's and is tipped to be Byron Bay-bound – has headed west to Rozelle, with a smart Kelvin Ho-designed interior.

Industrial spotlights hang over a charcuterie-backed chef workspace, and the dining room is a mix of bare tables and fabric light fittings. It's smart while still feeling like a local pub.

Executive chef Mike Eggert has brought the signatures along for the ride, with Totti's whoopee-cushion of wood-fired bread on the opening menu alongside "wood-roasted" chicken and fish and pasta dishes, including spinach pappardelle with kale and pistachio.

And there's a little extra. A dessert bar dishes up gelato, sundaes and tiramisu, while drinks lean toward Italian-inspired cocktails and organic wines.

When Hemmes snapped up 3 Weeds, he noted it shared a similar feel to The Royal (home to the Totti's original). He also inherited a pub with a strong food pedigree.

A local landmark since it opened in 1884, in more recent times everyone from Darrell Felstead (Foveaux, Four in Hand) to Lauren Murdoch (Rockpool, Felix Bar & Bistro) has spent time in its kitchen.

Now it's Totti's turn to carry the baton.

Open Wed-Sun noon-late.

197 Evans Street, Rozelle, merivale.com/venues/tottis-rozelle