Many forecasters predicted small, expensive restaurants would be the first victims of the pandemic. The deg is dead, right? Well, Sydney didn't get the memo.

Haco has opened on Alberta Street in Sydney, with a $185-a-head menu and just 12 seats. It joins other top-shelf arrivals, including the 10-seat Kuon Omakase and its recently opened $230-a-head Kuon Tempura. Ambitious? Try getting a seat. Sydney is lapping it up.

Across town, many restaurateurs are experiencing an increase in average spend as diners – some cashed up with money usually spent on overseas travel – indulge in a post-lockdown splurge.

Haco, Japanese for theatre, is a 20-course experience with a strong emphasis on tempura. It has some heavy-hitters in the kitchen, with ex-Sasaki chef Kensuke Yada and Keita Abe, who earned his stripes in Sydney with his ramen and yakitori Chaco Bar group.

Early dishes involve truffle, lobster, and a luxe-sounding dish of soy-marinated quail egg in tempura batter topped with caviar.

Open Tue-Sat 5.30pm-11pm.

21 Alberta Street, Sydney, hacosydney.com.au