Porcine Bistro opened on Friday, with the Paddington eatery the latest in a spate of French-flavoured launches after a lean decade for all things red, white and bleu. Fast-rising star chef Nicholas Hill is in the kitchen.

"It never did [go out of style] for me," Hill says as he puts the final touches on some sea scallop vol-au-vents.

But it did, at least briefly in the harbour city. After a period where French was barely sighted in a rush of new food developments sweeping Sydney, it's back with the openings of restaurants including the Dan Pepperell-fronted Bistrot 916, Meu Jardin in the city and new venues from the north shore to Rose Bay.

Hill explains his love for Gallic food was kick-started early in his career at Bathers' Pavilion, where he worked in the kitchen alongside Matt Fitzgerald, who is a partner at Porcine alongside Harry Levy (Don Peppino's). While both his partners are chefs, Hill explains they'll be on the floor while he looks after the kitchen.

Hill, who turned Brit pub food on its pig's ear at The Old Fitz, explains he won't be letting up on the use of pork.

Breaking down whole pigs, the kitchen will use choice cuts for the French classics, with a heavy emphasis at Porcine on butchery.

The bistro sits above the newly opened P&V Wine & Liquor, in the building which housed Oxford Street stalwart Micky's for decades.

"The kitchen is bigger than [the one he worked in at] Sepia," Hill says.

And you'll be able to order the charcuterie or some rillettes from the Porcine crew if you choose instead to sip on a wine from P&V Wine + Liquor Merchants out in its courtyard. French, preferably.

Open lunch Sun; dinner Thu-Sat.

268 Oxford Street, Paddington, porcine.com.au