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Moon Mart cafe is the Melbourne version of a Japanese convenience store

Emma Breheny
Emma Breheny

Yuzu doughnut at Moon Mart, which is modelled on convenience stores of Japan and Korea.
Yuzu doughnut at Moon Mart, which is modelled on convenience stores of Japan and Korea.Jun Chen

Convenience stores in Japan and Korea put our local corner shops to shame. But Moon Mart, a bright addition to blossoming West Melbourne, could raise the bar with its Tokyo-like approach to high quality food and drinks that are portable and perfect for solo visits.

The mart aspect is covered off by the small-batch condiments of chef Eun Hee An, which she's been producing under the Moon Mart label since 2020, after a career at Sydney restaurants Moon Park and Paper Bird.

Now, after eight months in Melbourne, Hee An is deploying her condiments in toasties, salads, rice bowls and more at Moon Mart the cafe, which Hee An has opened with business partner Mei Onsamlee (ex Momofuku Seiobo).

Lunchtime is all about rice sets, such as tonkatsu with condiments from the Moon Mart range.
Lunchtime is all about rice sets, such as tonkatsu with condiments from the Moon Mart range.Jun Chen
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There's a jaffle with emmental, smoked mozzarella and Moon Mart's kimchi, the product which kickstarted the business.

Try a crumbed egg sandwich with "special sauce" for breakfast, and at lunch, beef bibimbap featuring gochujang that Hee An makes in earthenware pots called onggi.

House-baked sweets, such as orange and five-spice caneles or kinako (roasted soy bean flour) cookies, can be matched to one of several cold drinks: iced chrysanthemum and pandan tea, perhaps. Coffee is made with Primary beans.

Chef Eun Hee An (left) and drinks guru Mei Onsamlee at the shopfront.
Chef Eun Hee An (left) and drinks guru Mei Onsamlee at the shopfront.Jun Chen

A simple core menu – three sandwiches and three salads – is designed with regulars in mind.

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But these are complemented by a weekend brunch menu and specials such as a chilled summer soup that was Hee An's favourite as a child in Korea, made with white kimchi liquid, somen noodles, boiled egg and more.

Hee An says she has long lists of ideas for specials in her head, plus plans for pop-up themed dinners in the new year.

While she's loving her "fresh chapter", she is excited to make food and serve it to people again. "I still have my cheffy feelings," she laughs.

After breakfast or lunch, the shelves on the other side of the shop beckon, stocked with jars of Moon Mart XO sauce or yuzu-jalapeno pickle, rare Korean ingredients imported by Table 181 and Japanese cookies and lollies.

Open Thu-Fri 7am-3pm; Sat-Sun 8am-3pm. Lunch served from 11am.

11-13 Stawell Street, West Melbourne, moonmart.com.au

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Emma BrehenyEmma BrehenyEmma is Good Food's Melbourne-based reporter and co-editor of The Age Good Food Guide 2024.

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/eating-out/moon-mart-cafe-is-the-melbourne-version-of-a-japanese-convenience-store-20221214-h28n6j.html