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Five of Melbourne's best reopened pubs for a parma and a pint

Callan Boys and Michael Harry

Karl van Buuren, Moon Dog brewery co-founder.
Karl van Buuren, Moon Dog brewery co-founder.Eddie Jim

Fitzroy's Birmingham Hotel reopened on Monday after 10 beer-free weeks and punters have been flocking to the pub non-stop ever since with two things on their radar.

"Everyone just wants a pint and a parma," says the Birmingham's general manager Peter Fairley.

"There are many meals you can make at home, but a parma is one you'll struggle to create as good as a pub. It's about getting the oven to the high temperature you need to achieve a parma's crispiness. And when you're only making a small amount of sauce, it's hard to create the same flavour you get from a massive batch."

The lure of fresh beer and chicken parmigiana has caused many keg-tapping venues to be fully booked each night since coronavirus restrictions were eased on June 1, permitting Victorian pubs and restaurants to reopen with a limit of 20 people per enclosed space.

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At Moon Dog World in Preston, burgers were the biggest selling menu item before the pandemic, however the parma has shot to number one over the past six days. "More than 50 per cent of our food orders are now for a parma," says Moon Dog co-founder Karl van Buuren.

Van Burren suggests the surge in parma popularity is because people have been missing the pub culture associated with chook schnitzel covered in cheese, ham and Neapolitan sauce even more than the dish itself.

"For Melburnians, a parma and a pint is more than just a meal at a bar - it's a nostalgic way to catch up with old friends," he says.

"When I go to the pub with mates we don't even look at the menu. It's just a case of 'four parmas and four pints and thank you very much'."

Van Buuren recommends a lager or pale ale to accompany Moon Dog's parma if people have plans to visit the brewpub.

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Meanwhile, David Stingl, general manager of on-premise sales at Carlton and United Breweries (CUB), says punters headed to a traditional pub this long weekend can be sure the draught taps will be flowing.

"Over the past couple of weeks, about 50,000 kegs of fresh CUB beer has been rolling into thousands of Victorian and NSW venues. The short time frame provided for [pubs] reopening and a surge in demand meant it has been a challenge to restock these venues with draught beer."

To help ensure venues are replenished with the brewery's most popular brands including Carlton Draught and Victoria Bitter, CUB has rapidly ramped up keg production and scheduled extra deliveries over the past few days.

"With so much fresh beer out there, people will be drinking draught at its best," says Stingl. "It won't get much better than a pint and a parma this long weekend."

Five of Melbourne's best reopened pubs for a parma and a pint

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The Birmingham

The Birmy was tipped by Melbourne's much-loved, recently retired blog ParmaDaze as the best red sauce-covered schnitzel in town (and they tried 400 of them). There are no special tricks, just a slab of crisp chick schnitt ($24) slathered in pizza-ish levels of Napoli sauce, torn ham and a secret cheese blend. Served with a pile of thick chips and fresh salad on a wooden board, because who needs plates?

333 Smith Street, Fitzroy. Dinner Tues-Sun.

Imperial Hotel

A pearler of a parma at the top end of town, this vast breast is loaded with ham and scorched mozzarella ($26), with the chips and salad separated in ramekins so none of the elements are cross-contaminated. You can wisely order a half serve ($20) or a meat-free eggplant version ($22).

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2-8 Bourke Street, Melbourne. Lunch and dinner Mon-Sat.

The Empress

Melbourne's obsession with elevated ingredients has spread to the humble parma, and The Empress champions a properly gourmet version ($24.50), with Japanese panko breadcrumbs, thin shaves of prosciutto and two types of cheese (mozzarella and pecorino). It's joined by Italian slaw and chunky roast potatoes.

714 Nicholson Street, Fitzroy North. Lunch Fri-Sun, dinner daily.

Village Belle Hotel

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Some parma fans extol the virtues of the more exotic Mexican parma, which brings the punch of nachos to a poultry base. The Belle's El Chapo Chicken Parmigiana ($27) is a beauty, grilled with spicy jalapenos and splashed with sour cream for extra decadence.

202 Barkly Street, St Kilda. Lunch Mon-Fri, dinner daily.

The Plough

This smart pub in the inner west doesn't break any rules with its prize parma ($27). Crumbed chicken breast? Check. Smoked ham? Naturally. Loads of melty cheese? Indeed. Chips, salad and plenty of fresh herbs? You bet. Complete the picture with a pot or pint of tap beer and cheers the return of the pub.

333 Barkly Street, Footscray. Lunch Fri-Sun, dinner Wed-Sun.

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Callan BoysCallan Boys is editor of SMH Good Food Guide, restaurant critic for Good Weekend and Good Food writer.
Michael HarryMichael Harry is a food and drinks writer, editor and contributor.

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/eating-out/melbournes-best-reopened-pubs-for-a-parma-and-a-pint-20200606-h1okvd.html