Melbourne's favourite purveyor of meatball subs, Rocco's Bologna Discoteca, is back for good and with more than just sandwiches in its repertoire.

The lockdown pop-up from 2020 has moved 150 metres along Gertrude Street from its original home at Poodle, emerging as a charmingly retro trattoria serving its signature sangas by day and house-made salumi, vitello tonnato and handmade pasta by night.

Poodle owners Emilio Scalzo and Zoe Rubino and chef Josh Fry have breathed new life into the former Casa Ciuccio site for their spin-off.

Transforming a smash-hit takeaway business into an all-day diner wasn't such a stretch, says Scalzo.

"Rocco's has always been a really fun brand but we wanted to ensure that you could have a fun bar and booze offering alongside that. We want people to have a good time… not just line up in the street and get takeaway," says Scalzo.

At Rocco's mark two, Fry's signature sandwiches are joined by snacks such as gnocco fritto, an extensive choice of Italian vegetable dishes such as wild weed pie, and larger dishes like baked clams or cotechino sausage with borlotti beans. Bone-in sirloin is served with a head of roasted garlic, lemon and salsa verde so diners can season it as they wish.

A soft-serve machine and pasta extruder are among the new kitchen toys, but the team is also turning out its own salumi, such as 24-month prosciutto and mortadella.

Studio Co & Co have introduced nonna chic downstairs with lots of timber, antique light fittings, amber glass and white cafe curtains between booths. Up to 40 guests can sit kitchen-side, in the front window or in the courtyard. Upstairs is a bar and function space with a private balcony.

Sommelier Alex Pineo has pulled together a mix of amaros and vermouths, plus wine made from Italian grape varieties such as lambrusco and franciacorta, even selecting Italian-leaning seltzers from Melbourne's Sopra. Classic cocktails join Joe's Lambourghini, a mix of cynar and creme de cassis, and a White Ferrari (Lillet blanc, gin and Cocchi Americano).

Open Wed & Sun noon-4pm, Thu-Sat noon-late.

15 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, 03 9046 2000, roccosbologna.com