French-born chef Guillaume Brahimi trained under Michelin-starred chef Joel Robuchon in Paris and has cooked and eaten all over the world. But it’s his maternal grandmother’s roast chicken that has his heart.

“My grandmother was a huge inspiration,” says the celebrity chef, who runs Bistro Guillaume at Crown Melbourne and Perth.

“She gave me so much love through cooking. She moved from Brittany to Paris before I was born, and cooking, for her, was an everyday joy. She made simple salads, crispy potatoes and a delicious roast chicken. She taught me the value of hard work, never complained, and ran a bottle shop with my grandfather.”

Brahimi, 55, who moved to Sydney in the 1990s, explores his French roots in his latest SBS cooking show, Plat du Tour, along the way busting the myth that French dishes are daunting to make at home. He makes a classic coq au vin from the Rhone wine region and shows how to master a burned Basque cheesecake with the locals in Spain’s Basque region.

The Sydney-based chef, who recently married chicken heiress Tamie Ingham at the Musee Rodin in Paris (his star-studded guest list included Karl Stefanovic and Lachlan and Sarah Murdoch), says travelling through his native France was an eye-opening experience. “I tried dishes I had never tasted before, which was quite amazing,” Brahimi says. Among them was garbure, a rustic ham hock and cabbage soup from the south-west of France.

EATING IN

Signature dish and go-to at home

My signature at home is a roast chicken. It’s a comfort go-to. I make sure I get a great free-range chicken and add plenty of garlic, thyme and bay leaves before I put it in the oven. At the same time, I make a dish of pommes sarladaises (duck fat potatoes) with plenty of garlic and parsley, as well as a nice salad on the side. That’s my happy place.

“The best advice I heard as a chef is that seasonal ingredients are everything. It doesn’t mean they have to be expensive, but in-season is a must when cooking.”

Guillaume Brahimi

Guilty pleasure

I often head to the pantry when we watch TV at night, and recently discovered a love of dark chocolate – it means I don’t need to ransack the shelves [laughs]. A small piece of 75 per cent dark chocolate makes me happy. At the moment I am eating Valrhona chocolate from France.

Best kitchen wisdom I cling to

The best advice I heard as a chef is that seasonal ingredients are everything. It doesn’t mean they have to be expensive, but in-season is a must when cooking. I don’t try to cook with produce that isn’t available. I learnt that as a young boy growing up in France with my family – we always shopped from markets as we needed items. I do that with my work as well. Shopping in season is the most cost-effective.

EATING OUT

My favourite hometown restaurant (and go-to dish)

I love to dine at a’Mare at Crown Sydney. Chef Alex (Alessandro Pavoni) makes a beautiful pesto pasta – and he makes the pesto in front of you. Seeing him crush the basil, garlic and parmesan is beautiful − I love it. And the fresh pasta − the experience is unbelievable.

My favourite hometown cafe and bar (and favourite drink/snack at each):

My Saturday routine when I am home is to visit Rocco’s in Vaucluse for coffee then head to Baker Bleu in Double Bay for a sandwich. They make a great Italian friselle (twice-baked roll) with prosciutto, parmesan and rocket. It’s my favourite.

When it comes to a drink at a bar, I now enjoy negroni or a simple martini – it has to be done well as it puts you in the mood for a special night. When I am showing off the city to guests visiting from overseas or interstate, we head to Icebergs in Bondi for a cocktail. The negronis are delicious, the service impeccable and the view of Bondi Beach is amazing. I know it’s a cliche, but this is a go-to for sure.

What is your favourite place to eat in Australia, and can you share any special food memories?

I have many fond memories of celebrating my kids’ birthdays at Bennelong at the Sydney Opera House. They always wanted to dine there on their special day. They never ordered from the kids’ menu − they always wanted the full experience. As time goes by, I reflect on how strong and special those memories were for me. They ate the steak, the passionfruit souffle and lemon tart. They always wanted to come to my work and have me dine at the table with them. They were some of the few times I ever sat down in my own restaurant and saw it from a different point of view.

I also used to take 30 of the staff on a Sunday to Golden Century and eat Chinese together. We’d go crazy and order pipis and everything on the menu! It was a chance to thank the kitchen and floor team who worked with me. I still see ex-colleagues who talk about those memories fondly today. They refer to that culture as a great time in hospitality. I left Bennelong in 2016.

ON THE ROAD

What’s your favourite food city, and where do you like to eat there?

I fell in love with Paris again recently. The focus on local produce is the best in the world. In every quarter of the city you’ll find a market. Look for the freshest produce, from the juicy white asparagus and peaches – the flavours won’t leave you. Even a punnet of strawberries had my TV show road crew blown away. And the taste of apricots! It’s so memorable. Just visit a fresh food market and you can’t go wrong.

When it comes to dining in Paris, Le Bistrot Paul Bert is the definition of bistronomy – great ingredients cooked simply. I dined there with Tamie recently. A memorable dish of white thick asparagus with a steak au poivre was perfect. Also try three-star Michelin restaurant L’Arpege, another temple of fine French gastronomy. Owner and chef Alain Passard owns a big farm outside of Paris where the vegetables are grown and they make their way to the dishes here.

Where do you stay when you’re there, and why?

In Paris, I always stay low-key with friends who welcome us into their home. For those who don’t have friends there, I would suggest trying the small boutique hotels in Saint Germain or go luxury at Hotel Costes. It’s a five-star experience. Don’t be tempted to stay too far from the city as you’ll spend your budget on taxi fares and public transport.

SYDNEY

Where do you love to eat in Sydney?

I recently took my wife to Oncore at Crown Sydney when chef Clare Smyth was visiting. It was one of the most amazing fine-dining experiences we have ever had. The precision of the cooking and the simplicity of it is outstanding. I rarely go to degustation dining, but this was memorable. I also love taking a chance with food and getting out of my comfort zone. I like to support the new generation of chefs, and we like to dine out on Monday to Wednesday when the industry needs us. We recently went to Alberto’s Lounge in Sydney, a simple, busy trattoria and you can’t go wrong with the menu.

MELBOURNE

What are your Melbourne favourites?

When in Melbourne, I am always at Tipo 00. My daughter is at Melbourne University and when I visit, this is where she picks time and again. The pasta specials are delicious. I also love what Andrew McConnell is doing at Gimlet. I feel at home where I am there.

Watch Plat du Tour on SBS on Demand