Big is back. After a record run for small bars and diminutive diners, the first stage of the sprawling Hinchcliff House Wool Store development at Circular Quay opens its doors this week.

The entry level Grana eatery and its attached bakery serves its first customers on Tuesday, with the rest of the historic four-level building – which is handsomely lashed in Sydney sandstone and giant red ironbark timber beams – to follow in coming weeks.

Restaurateur Scott Brown points to the custom-made benchtop, which is littered with crushed mother of pearl and snakes through Grana. "We call it the serpentine, it's close to 40 metres," he says.

Apollonia, a basement bar carved out of the bedrock, will be the next to open, followed by "premium-casual" eatery Lana and a sprawling function space on the top floor.

The venue has assembled an impressive kitchen crew: Flying Fish chef Stephen Seckold as culinary director, and chefs Elliott Pinn (Doot Doot Doot and Rascal, in Victoria) and Jason Duncan (Fred's).

Grana is open Mon-Sat 6am-11pm

5-7 Young Street, Circular Quay, hinchcliffhouse.com