Before the age of shared plates elbowed its way in, it was the degustation restaurant that flew its flag high over Sydney. And one of the northern bastions for the deg-devotee, COYA, has relocated to updated digs at St Leonards.

The COYA story started in Cromer, on Sydney's northern beaches, in 2016. Wedged between a newsagent and a bottleshop, the original restaurant evidently created enough of a following to take its Turkish delight gateau to the bigger smoke of St Leonards.

COYA's owner-chef, Ashraf Saleh, who releases his second book this month – Ash's Spice Journey – pushes a cuisine focus of modern Australian with a Middle Eastern twist and French technique.

The new restaurant remains devoted to the deg; its options jump from a $100 six-course degustation (with a vegetarian option) to a $150 10-course menu. Dishes include kingfish nayeh, scallops with pickled apple and garlic and lemon chicken. It also has a $70 three-course lunch.

"We have loved our time in Cromer, however, it is time for a new challenge. Curiosity keeps us going, being in the midst of a new environment to challenge us and help us grow," Saleh says.

Open Thu-Sat lunch; Wed-Sat dinner.

2/567 Pacific Highway, St Leonards, 02 9981 7053, coyasydney.com.au