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Amphlett House taps Melbourne’s love of a pub - and the CBD's lack of pub choices

Emma Breheny
Emma Breheny

Amphlett House brings a touch of the pub to the CBD, but with extra care in the drinks and details, right down to fish and chips.
Amphlett House brings a touch of the pub to the CBD, but with extra care in the drinks and details, right down to fish and chips.Ashley Ludkin

It's not hard to find a good bar in Melbourne's CBD. But a pub? That's not styled on a ye olde tavern? Thankfully, Amphlett House, a 20-tap venue with pub grub from Ian Curley opens next week at the Paris end of Little Bourke Street.

While it calls itself a tap house rather than a pub, Amphlett House's easy-to-approach menu, relaxed service and extensive choice of beers definitely scratches the pub itch. It's something that appealed to Curley, director of kitchen operations at Ovolo Hotels, who own the venue.

"When we decided that the venue was going to be a taphouse I was already very excited and inspired by its great bones. After cooking vegan dishes for the last year at Lona Misa, I suddenly find myself with a bigger scope to work within," he says.

Cocktails, such as the Bee's Knees, are by one of the co-founders of award-winning Sydney bar Maybe Sammy.
Cocktails, such as the Bee's Knees, are by one of the co-founders of award-winning Sydney bar Maybe Sammy. Ashley Ludkin
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Selecting top suppliers such as Clamms Seafood or Bass Strait Beef is, he says, the point of difference in Amphlett's pub classics. Think steak with kampot pepper sauce, fish and chips with yoghurt tartar, and chicken schnitzel.

Sourcing mostly from Victoria, he's also preparing bone marrow toast, seared beef heart with lentils and creamed spinach, and an all-day breakfast of mushrooms, egg and focaccia.

The cocktails are also a step-up from your regular pub. Batched and tapped drinks, such as an orange and cold brew Americano, join Aussie spins on classics including a riberry Cosmo.

Amphlett House will offer elevated pub grub from chef Ian Curley and highly considered drinks.
Amphlett House will offer elevated pub grub from chef Ian Curley and highly considered drinks.Ashley Ludkin

They're the work of Andrea Gualdi, co-founder of acclaimed Sydney bar, Maybe Sammy. He created the drinks with a food scientist to ensure they could be pre-batched without affecting quality. That means speedier drinks for you, less work for busy staff.

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Chartreuse-green leather booths, timber panelling and geometric mirrors give the 120-person venue a vintage feel. It sits next to Ovolo's Laneways hotel.

Open from November 17, Mon-Sat 11.30am-late, Sun 11.30am-6.30pm

19 Little Bourke Street, Melbourne, 03 8692 0777, amphletthouse.com.au

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Emma BrehenyEmma BrehenyEmma is Good Food's Melbourne-based reporter and co-editor of The Age Good Food Guide 2024.

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/eating-out/amphlett-house-taps-melbournes-love-of-a-pub--and-the-cbds-lack-of-pub-choices-20221107-h27ono.html