Veraison wears its heart on its well-pressed sleeve; yes, the menu is lovely, but witness the 500-bin wine list and Spiegelau glasses, not to mention the name ('grape-ripening') and know this the home of committed oenophiles, headed by enthusiastic sommelier and owner Andrew Smith, who presides attentively over the quiet, softy lit dining room. The kitchen isn't relegated to the wings, however, with thoughtful takes on classics from a perfect amuse-bouche of silken purple carrot and ginger soup to the chewy, nutty grains of pearl barley in a delightful shiitake and forest mushroom risotto. Roast duck breast with sticky port-braised figs, cumquat marmalade and parsnips is a harmony of deep flavour and texture, while a pork cutlet is juicy and pink, classically matched with apple and butternut. A creme brulee is lifted out of the ordinary with fragrant saffron and cardamom, and a good digestif is quite obligatory.