Is this Brisbane’s best BBQ restaurant?

For years it was the iconic Harry’s Diner in Brisbane’s inner north, now it’s been totally revamped — here’s what you can expect.

THERE are whiskey connoisseurs and those who appreciate the dark, malted spirit — and then there’s Ryan Lane.

The former long-time manager of multi-award-winning Brisbane CBD bar The Gresham has finally stepped out on his own, opening his first venue and, unsurprisingly, it’s dedicated to his liquid obsession.

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Taking over the iconic Harry’s Diner site in Windsor, in Brisbane’s inner north, Proof BBQ and Booze delivers American saloon vibes with leather-wrapped, curved barstools, rustic timber floors and bentwood chairs, alongside tastes of the deep south.

Then there’s Lane’s impressive bourbon-heavy whiskey collection concentrated on the greats of Kentucky – think Willet Family Reserve, Sazerac and Smooth Ambler.

There’s something to appeal to everyone from the novice to the aficionado, and price points to match, with glasses starting at $8 and going to in excess of $100 for the likes of a Thomas H. Handy pour.

Jalapeño and cheddar hot links, pulled pork, "taxi fries" (deep fried chicken skin), Mac & Cheese with brisket and in-house pickles at Proof BBQ & Booze. Picture: Mark Cranitch

While Lane is always behind the bar to guide choices, or whip up one of the venue’s classic cocktails such as an old-fashioned or mint julep, taking care of the food is barbecue extraordinaire Michael Cameron of catering company Meat Me BBQ.

Going into one of three smokers on site every day is everything from pulled pork to whole fish, with meat served by the pound or half pound.

There are also classic snacks such as burnt ends, grilled corn, and starters including barbecue shrimp and grits, mac ’n’ cheese and two different varieties of wings.

Jalapeno poppers ($8) are a fresh way to begin – with the chillies halved and stuffed with cream cheese, diced bacon and beef brisket then grilled and drizzled with barbecue sauce – before getting stuck into the serious stuff.

Brisket, ribs, buffalo wings and corn bread at Proof. Picture: Mark Cranitch

A full pound of brisket ($22) ends up being around four 1cm-thick slices of fatty beef, charry on the outside and softer than a soccer player trying to draw a penalty.

It’s perfect flopped over a piece of freshly buttered, sweet, warm corn bread ($5) and finished with a bite of barely dressed slaw ($5).

For those who like a bit of chilli, the hot links ($8/$16) are a must.

Made by a local butcher, the pork, jalapeno and cheddar, chorizo-like sausages have a sneaky heat that creeps up right at the end.

Proof BBQ & Booze’s smoked watermelon and prosciutto salad with gorgonzola. Picture: Mark Cranitch

Far tamer are the pork ribs – available as a half ($18) or full rack ($35).

The meat – basted with sweet, barbecue sauce that complements rather than overpowers – just clings to the bones, requiring diners to really nibble at it and enjoy that visceral, tactile experience.

Also sweet and sticky are the chicken wings cooked over pecan wood ($12/$20), which are a more family-friendly version than the spicy buffalo wings ($12/$20).

American classics make up the dessert offerings, with the tangy yet saccharine key
lime pie served with a splodge of whiskey-spiked whipped cream.

The saloon-style interiors at Proof BBQ & Booze, Windsor. Picture: Mark Cranitch

Cameron is also a former beer rep, which means there’s a stellar little line-up of Aussie craft brews of various styles and weights, joined by a tight, affordably focused wine list (all bottles are under $55).

With talented folk behind it and nothing like it in the area, it’s little surprise Proof is already drawing big crowds.