Sorry, New York, this city’s food scene is better

“Everything tastes better with a story behind it,” says Dubai-born, Syrian-French chef Solemann Haddad as 12 of us gather around the open kitchen of his one-Michelin-starred rooftop venue Moonrise in Satwa.

The self-taught 28-year-old chef’s 11-course menu (updated since we visited) is a homage to his childhood in Dubai, with nods to the flavours and techniques of the Middle East and Japan.

Hamachi Sumac Sashimi at Moonrise.

One of the dishes, a sphere of perfectly charred, puffed Arabic-style bread served with cheesy dipping sauce was inspired by the garlic bread served at his school’s cafeteria. “I used to steal money from my dad to buy this bread,” he says.

Haddad’s final savoury dish offers another nostalgic glimmer of “his favourite kebab place in the world”, served with the business card of the Khoory Special Kebab Restaurant at Dubai’s Al Manzar Beach.

Dubai is one of the world’s youngest cities, but its multi-faceted food DNA tells a much deeper story. From Afghani bakeries and Indian street food to Lebanese neighbourhood eats and avant-garde fine-diners, the emirate has evolved into one of the world’s most eclectic and accessible food cities, propelled by the eclectic cultural make-up of its more than 3.5 million inhabitants.

Orfali Bros Bistro.

In late 2022, the New York Times reported that Dubai now has more restaurants per capita than New York City. The same year, both the World’s 50 Best Restaurants Middle East and North Africa (MENA) and Michelin Guide debuted in the emirate for the first time, with unlicensed neighbourhood eatery Orfali Bros Bistro, owned by three young Syrian brothers, taking out the number one spot for MENA for 2023.

Mohammad, Wassim and Omar Orfali… the team behind Orfali Bros Bistro.

“We call our cuisine ‘Orfalian’,” says Mohammed Orfali, who heads up the kitchen while his two pastry chef brothers, Wassim and Omar, create glossy desserts and patisseries in the space above.

“It doesn’t fit into a specific mould, we cook what we love. Representing Syrian food here in Dubai is very important to us because it has such a rich culinary history,” he says.

“There are now many homegrown concepts trying to push the boundaries when it comes to seasonality and local sourcing, which is changing the identity of the city’s gastronomic landscape. We are now noticing people flying to Dubai to eat, which is very exciting.”

Arva Ahmed, who grew up in Dubai and runs food tour company Frying Pan Adventures with her sister Farida, shares that sentiment.

“We are already one of the most, if not the most, diverse food cities in the world in terms of cultural representation, pricing spectrum and availability of global versus homegrown brands,” she says.

Tresind Studio was the first to be awarded two Michelin stars in the UAE.

“Being a younger city, Dubai has more legroom to stretch and shape its image as a food destination.”

One of the emirate’s most successful homegrown concepts is modern Indian Tresind Studio, the first restaurant to be awarded two Michelin stars in the UAE. Helmed by chef Himanshu Saini, it occupies a moody dining room at the lofty St Regis Gardens on Palm Jumeirah.

Orfali Bros Bistro cocktail.

The restaurant soared from No.57 in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants top-100 list for 2022 to No.11 in 2023, and No.13 this year.

Having experienced one of the most humbling meals of my life there only a week earlier, I was elated for them, yet not surprised.

Chef Himanshu uses French techniques to elevate the cuisine, and the multi-course tasting menu is served alongside innovative “synergy” drinks featuring a boozy take on masala chai, as well as whisky, sake and beer. The colourful, textural journey through India’s four regions is a prodigious affair that elegantly unravels stereotypes around Indian cuisine.

Dubai downtown.Credit: iStock

A handful of elite fine-diners in Dubai are now attracting Michelin stars, but the foundation of Dubai’s dining scene is undoubtedly its under-championed cheap eats.

“You’ll find authentic pani puri and biryani, shawarma, kebab, hummus and falafel, even Chinese dumplings,” says Mohammed.

So what’s the best place to eat in Dubai? “JLT (Jumeirah Lake Towers) is one of the most diverse neighbourhoods, even more so than Old Dubai, in terms of cultural representation. There are a lot of homegrown restaurants that offer good value for money,” says Arva.

Where to eat in Dubai

Arva says...

Al Khayma Go for the Emirati machboos (deliciously spiced rice cooked with meat, chicken or fish) and luqaimat (sweet dumplings drizzled with date molasses). See alkhayma.com

Mama’esh Bakery The Palestinian mana’eesh or fatayer with za’atar and cheese are a must-eat. See mamaesh.com

Zaroob The subject of where to eat the best shawarma is controversial because everyone has an opinion on this, but the chicken shawarma is great. See zaroob.com

Mohammed says...

Tresind Studio Two-Michelin starred modern Indian challenging common perceptions of Indian cuisine. See tresindstudio.com

Moonrise Chef Soleman Haddad’s 12-seater serves up a tasting menu that references his childhood in Dubai. See moon-rise.xyz

Ossiano This almost underwater dining room overlooks a giant aquarium and is the basis for chef Gregoire Berger’s interactive 12-course ocean-inspired menu. See atlantis.com

The writer travelled at her own expense and dined with assistance from Visit Dubai.