20 things that will surprise first-time visitors to Melbourne

You think you know Melbourne: it's basically a network of graffiti-strewn laneways lined with hole-in-the-wall venues, each crowded with black-clad residents sipping ristrettos on milk crates, right?

Well, not quite. While you may find that cliched scene in certain parts of the city, there's so much more to Melbourne than meets the eye, and first-time visitors will be surprised in numerous ways.

If you're heading to the Victorian capital, be prepared for the following.

It’s beautiful

Model Tudor Village at Fitzroy Gardens.Credit: Visit Victoria

Melbourne is supposedly Sydney's homely cousin, and yet this is a city with a huge number of gorgeous vistas. From parklands such as Fitzroy Gardens and Werribee Park, to riverside wanders along the Yarra, to stunning architecture in the form of the Royal Exhibition Building, the State Library of Victoria and the NGV, there's plenty of beauty to appreciate.

There’s a north-south divide

The Yarra River doesn’t seem like much of a geographical boundary, let alone a philosophical one. And yet spend time in Melbourne and you realise that the north and south are very different places. The south, suburbs such as Prahran, South Yarra and Toorak, tend to be well-heeled and a little conservative, while the northern likes of Fitzroy, Collingwood, Northcote and Brunswick are far more alternative.

The markets are amazing

Credit: Visit Victoria

Melbourne should be more famous for its markets. If you have even the slightest interest in food, then you have to get down to South Melbourne Market, Prahran Market, Dandenong Market and Queen Victoria Market. Each offers something a little different, though the quality of fresh produce and prepared food is stupidly high across the board.

Myki is infuriating

Why, you will wonder, does Melbourne insist on this finicky form of payment for its public transport system? If you're hoping to catch a tram, a train or a bus, you'll need a Myki card. Only, you can't buy one on board, and you can't top them up on board either. And you can't use your credit card or phone to pay if you've forgotten.

There are six wine regions

Rare Hare Wine and Foodstore, Mornington Peninsula.Credit: Visit Victoria

What the hell, Melbourne? How do you get so lucky? How do you have not one, not two, not three or four or five but SIX world-class wine regions within an hour of your CBD? It almost doesn’t seem real. And yet, jump in the car and head any direction (except south) and you will hit one of Mornington Peninsula, West Gippsland, Yarra Valley, Sunbury, the Macedon Ranges, or the Bellarine Peninsula. And Heathcote, wine region number seven, is only one and a half hours away. Phenomenal.

There are breweries, many breweries

You don't even have to leave the city limits to get your hands on freshly brewed, small-batch beer. Plenty of breweries are crowded into the Collingwood/Fitzroy/Abbotsford area, including Moon Dog, The Mill, Range Brewing, Bodriggy, Stomping Ground, and Molly Rose. There are loads more spread across the city.

Hook turns

Yeah look, this is a thing you'll have to get used to. And it will surprise you, even if you're expecting it. On streets in which trams run down the middle, you turn right from the far left lane. Just deal with it.

Footscray is cool

Footscray comeback: Littlefoot Bar + Kitchen.Credit: Visit Victoria

Formerly something of a no-go zone, Footscray has transformed over recent years into a hub of great food and drink with a diverse crowd. There's plenty of the "old" Footscray here, in the form of cheap (though still very good) eateries and dollar-shops, plus a new influx of wine bars and restaurants that have helped make this one of Melbourne's most interesting locales. The Ethiopian and Vietnamese food in particular is stellar.

The CBD gets loose

Melbourne is a pretty classy joint, whether you're into high-end boutique shopping or the raddest hidden arts district (see Collingwood Yards). So, it comes as a surprise to hang out in the CBD on a Friday or Saturday night and see the carnage that takes place late into the evening. This is not classy. Maybe stick to the suburbs.

There’s bad food (but not much)

Credit: Visit Victoria

It is possible, if you really try, to have a bad meal in Melbourne. There are a few restaurateurs out there that just don't care that much. By and large, however, the stereotype of Melbourne as Australia's food capital is accurate. The restaurants here, from modest eateries to trendy cafes to suburban wine bars to stylish bistros to the pinnacles of fine-dining, are of incredibly high quality. You could come here just to eat, and you would leave happy.

There’s bad coffee (but not much)

Again, bad coffee does exist in Melbourne. But the city-wide obsession with a good cup means you're far more likely to find artisanal cold-brew or single-origin pour-overs or a "magic" coffee – a piccolo latte made with a double ristretto – than you are a cup of mass-produced sludge. Enjoy it.

Breakfast is the most important meal of the day

Melburnians love a good breakfast, whether that's artisanal croissants, classic smashed avo, modern takes on French bistro standards, legit Japanese breakfasts, Turkish-style day-starters, or even vegan treats. You will rarely be disappointed.

You need an umbrella

Look out the window. Is it cloudy? Then you need an umbrella. Is it sunny? You still need an umbrella. Is it raining? Um…

The laneways really are that good

Melbourne’s laneways look cool. Credit: Visit Victoria

What's up with laneways? Aren't they just small streets? Kinda dingy? A little on the sketchy side? Yes to all of those things, and yet in Melbourne these narrow passageways really are a cultural phenomenon worthy of exploration. Bars, restaurants, boutiques, galleries – they're all hidden down laneways.

No one uses signage

And yes, they are hidden, because it’s kind of a thing in Melbourne, particularly along laneways, to shun signage and just expect everyone to know where you are and what you do. For first-time visitors, it pays to have a local with you. Or Google Maps.

There’s beach culture

St Kilda Beach.Credit: Visit Victoria

Given the temperature is often a little low and the waves are even lower, it's unsurprising that Melbourne's beach culture isn't world famous. And yet, it's there if you look for it: most notably in St Kilda, though Brighton Beach, with its multi-hued bathing boxes, Williamstown and Half Moon Bay are all great. And you're not far away from surfie hubs such as Torquay.

Footy is a wild obsession

If you don't have an answer to the question, "Who's your team?" then you better come up with one quickly, because "I don't have one" is just not a response any Melburnian is going to understand. This is a city that lives, breathes and constantly bangs on about AFL football. You should get along to the MCG to see a game. And you should find a team to support.

Culture is everywhere

Culture is everywhere in Melbourne.Credit: Jesse Hisco

Into live music? Melbourne has something on. A fan of visual art? You will find venues across the city. Fancy a trip to the theatre, or a comedy show? Melbourne has you covered. Want to tap into Indigenous culture? That's simple too. This is Australia's cultural capital.

Many attractions are free

Great news for those seeking culture, too: many of Melbourne's attractions are free. You get free entry to the permanent collection at the NGV, plus it costs nothing to visit the Australian Centre of Contemporary Art, the State Library of Victoria, the Australian Centre for the Moving Image, and many more.

There’s always a festival

Credit: Visit Victoria

If you're in Melbourne and there isn't a festival on, then there's one about to start. With heavy hitters such as the Melbourne International Comedy Festival (April), Melbourne International Film Festival (August), and Melbourne Fringe (September) supplemented by a wide variety of smaller, niche celebrations, you're rarely short of something to experience.